Maintaining PERENNIALS in your landscape
Maintaining SHRUBS in your landscape
Maintaining TREES in your landscape
Growing ROSES in Montana
Growing CLEMATIS in Montana
Growing ORNAMENTAL GRASSES in Montana
Growing APPLES in Montana
Growing PEARS, PLUMS, and CHERRIES in Montana
Growing RASPBERRIES in Montana
Growing GRAPES in Montana
Growing RHUBARB in Montana
Growing STRAWBERRIES in Montana
Growing ASPARAGUS in Montana
Growing CURRANTS and GOOSEBERRIES in Montana
Choosing plants for WILDLIFE
Planning a PERENNIAL BED in your landscape
Planting the RIGHT PLANT in the RIGHT PLACE
PLANTING and CARE of nursery stock
SOIL IMPROVEMENT for beautiful plants
Using GYPSUM to improve soils
The VALUE of landscaping
YEAR-ROUND maintenance guide

Maintaining PERENNIALS in your landscape

Montana presents a harsh environment for landscape plants.  High soil pH, low humidity and precipitation, Chinook conditions and fluctuating winter temperatures can take their tole on even the hardiest perennial.  To maintain a beautiful landscape, it is very important to give your perennials the proper care they need to thrive.

Watering
Spring- Water sheltered plants and dry areas underneath house overhangs.
Summer- Frequency of summer watering is dictated by the weather, the soil type and the plant’s water requirements.  Water early in the day to avoid going into the evening with wet, disease-susceptible foliage.  Water thoroughly, to a depth of 8-10 inches, to encourage deep root penetration.  Soil should dry out a bit between watering.  Waterlogged soil will encourage root disease and excludes oxygen, resulting in shallow-rooted, drought-prone, instable plants.
Fall- Water frequently, especially during dry spells.  Just before the ground freezes in late fall, water all plants heavily again to prevent roots from being damaged in cold, dry soil.
Winter- When clearing snow from walks and driveways, pile some soft snow over tender plants and onto flowerbeds that are underneath house overhangs.  Snow provides moisture and acts as insulation to prevent plant damage or death caused by freezing and thawing during and after winter warm spells.  Do not do this if you use a lot of salt on your walkways.  If there is an unusually warm, dry spell in late winter, water exposed flowerbeds, particularly those on the south or west side of the house.

Fertilizing
Perennials need constant nourishment to stay healthy.  Regularly adding organic matter, like compost or peat moss helps.  Most perennials also benefit from regular applications of fertilizer.  Use a complete, slow release granular fertilizer, such as Osmocote in the spring and early summer as plants are actively growing.  If the perennial bed begins to lag a bit in the summer, use a water soluble foliar fertilizer such as Miracle Gro or Peters to give your plants a boost.  Stop fertilizing in mid-summer, around August first.  This will give the plants time to harden off for winter.  In the spring and early fall (mid to late September), scatter a few handfuls of bone meal on the soil around your plants.  This helps strengthen their roots and promotes blooming.  Note: over-fertilizing with nitrogen promotes vegetative growth at the expense of flowering and increases the need of staking.

Weeding
Weeding is important because weeds compete for nutrients and water.  Your first chore is to be able to distinguish weeds, even at the seedling stage, from desirable perennials.  Once so distinguished, weeding can be done by hand, with shallow cultivation, with herbicides, or largely avoided by using mulches.

Mulching
Adding a 2-4 inch layer of mulch helps control weeds, reduces water loss, moderates soil temperature changes and prevents mud splattering of foliage and flowers.  Mulches can consist of biodegradable materials, such as compost or bark, or non-biodegradable, such as decorative rock.  Compost and bark mulches are good to use because they add nutrients to the soil as they biodegrade.  These mulches may need to be added every year.  If using rock mulches, you should add a layer of Typar weed fabric underneath to help control weeds and to prevent the rocks from “sinking” into the soil.

Deadheading
The removal of spent blooms improves the appearance of the perennials and prevents the investment of energy in seed production.  It also encourages the plant to continue blooming, and may stimulates a second flush of blooms.  A few perennials like Autumn Joy sedum, Black-Eyed-Susan, and ornamental grasses should be allowed to retain their seed heads for their winter interest.

Staking
Giving a physical support to the individual stems or to the plant as a whole, is often necessary for those perennials with a natural tendency to fall over because of their height, habit, or weight of blooms and foliage.  Tall plants, such as delphinium and hollyhocks, may require individual stakes for support.  Select stakes that will be at least 3/4 as tall as the individual stems they are to support when firmly anchored into the soil.  Tie the stems to the stakes with a soft material.  Stake bushy, multi-stemmed, floppy perennials such as asters, peonies and coreopsis with a wire hoop or by pushing 3 to 4 stakes into the soil around the perennial.  Then tie up the plant using a soft material such as twine or floral tape.  Put the supports in place early in the season before young shoots are too tall.  The plants then grow around and through to eventually disguise the support.

Perennials in Containers
The volume of soil in most containers is not adequate to prevent the roots of perennials from freezing and dying over winter.  In cold winter areas like ours, perennials growing in patio containers should be transplanted into the garden.  Allow at least two to three weeks prior to freeze-up in the fall for roots to become established.

Cutting Back
On warm fall days, many gardeners call wondering if it is okay to cut back perennials.  We have found over the years that leaving pruning until spring increases plants’ survival rates over the winter.  Growth left standing traps snow, and, for plants and roots, snow is the best protection against cold. 

• As soon as the garden is dry enough to walk on in the spring, clear away debris left from fall.  Cut back dead growth from perennials to about 2 inches high.  Leave all green growth intact.

• Never cut back evergreen perennials (see evergreen perennial list).  Cutting these plants back will at best prevent them from flowering next season, and at worst result in their death.

If you decide to cut back your plants in fall, keep a few things in mind which will result in a more spectacular show of flowers next season:

• Wait until plant leaves become brown and dry: green foliage helps feed roots, and strong roots are needed for plants to get through winter intact.  Some perennials won’t turn brown until after a hard frost.

• Don’t cut back perennials that were planted this year.  New plants need the extra protection that snow provides, and leaving top growth intact helps trap snow.

Evergreen Perennials
The following are evergreen perennials which should not be cut back at all, only cut off dead foliage:

• Bergenia, Candytuft, Dianthus, Hens and Chicks, Hollyhock, Lavender, Lewisia, Phlox (creeping), Rockcress, Sandwort, Saxifraga, Sedum (creeping), Sisyrinchium, Thrift, Thyme, Tiarella, Vinca, Yucca

Incomplete Dormant Perennials
Most perennials die back to the ground and regenerates from the roots or underground stem tissue.  Some perennials, however have an “incomplete dormancy”.  This means the foliage dies back to a rosette at or slightly above the soil line; spring growth resumes from the rosette.  When you cut these perennials, be sure not to cut into the rosette.  The following is a list of Incomplete dormant plants:

• Ajuga, Artemesia, Aster, Campanula, Catananche, Cerastium, Coral Bell, Coreopsis, Daisy, Dianthus (Sweet William), Doronicum, Gaillardia, Geranium, Helenium, Jacob’s Ladder, Painted Daisy, Penstemon, Primrose, Salvia, Soapwort, Scabiosa, Spurge, Sweet Woodruff, Yarrow

Dividing Perennials
After two or three years many perennials should be divided.  It’s time to rejuvenate a plant if the center has died out, if the plants are overcrowded, or if blooming has diminished.  The timing of division is often dictated by the flowering date.  Perennials that bloom in the spring or early summer are usually divided in the fall or after the foliage dies back.  Summer and fall-flowering types are divided in early spring before growth begins. 

How to divide perennials:

• Cut back foliage of larger plants by 2/3.  Avoid damaging new growth.

• In the spring, divide plants when new growth is at least 1-2 inches but less that 4 inches tall.

• Carefully dig around the plants.  Lift out the entire clump, including as much soil as possible. 

Method A: Large Perennials                       

• Use a garden shovel to split the plant into 2 or 3 pieces.  Each piece should have at least 3 stems and lots of roots.

• Plants to divide using Method:
•  Aster, Bergenia, Bleeding Heart, Daisy, Daylily, Delphinium, Echinacea, Geranium, Helenium, Jacob’s Ladder, Joe Pye Weed, Lady’s Mantle, Ligularia, Monarda, Penstemon, Peony, Phlox (garden), Poppy (oriental), Rudbeckia, Salvia, Snow on the Mountain, Soapwort, Trollius, Veronica, Yarrow

Method B: Small Perennials                         

• Use a sharp knife to divide the root into 2 or 3 separate pieces.  Make sure each piece has a growing point and some roots.

• Plants to divide using Method B:
• Anemone, Astilbe, Cerastium, Chrysanthemum, Coral Bell, Coreopsis, Dianthus, Fern, Gaillardia, Hosta, Pasque flower, Phlox (creeping), Sedum (upright), Yucca

Method C:  Easily Separated Perennials      

• Some perennials can be easily pulled apart with your hands.  Ensure that each set of leaves has its own stem and roots.

• Loosen the soil in the bottom of the original hole.  Add a couple of inches of peat moss or compost and mix in thoroughly.  A handful of bone meal aids root development.

• Firmly plant one segment into the old hole.  Place other divisions elsewhere in the garden or pot them up and give them to friends.  In some plants, the center portion dies out with age and should be discarded.

• Perennials being divided should be replanted or potted as soon as possible.  

• Pack soil firmly by tamping it with your hands.

• Leave a slight rim of soil around new transplants to hold moisture more readily.  Water well, and fertilize with a half-strength solution of Miracle Gro or Peters.

• If dividing in the late summer or fall, do it early enough so that the plants can establish themselves before winter, usually before mid-October. 

• Plants to divide using Method C:
•  Campanula, Creeping Jenny, Hens & Chicks, Iris, Lamium, Liatris, Lily, Lily-of-the-Valley, Primrose, Rockcress, Saxifrage, Sedum (creeping), Thrift, Strawberry, Thyme 

Plants that should not be divided:

• Artemesia (silver mound), Baby’s Breath, Balloon Flower, Butterfly Flower, Candytuft, Cimicifuga, Clematis, False Indigo, Flax, Foxglove, Gas Plant, Hollyhock, Honeysuckle, Hops, Lupine, Oenothera, Poppy (Iceland), Russian Sage, Sea Holly, Spurge, Statice.

Most perennials should be divided in the Spring.  The following is a list of plants that should be divided in the fall or after flowering in the summer:

• Bergenia, Bleeding Heart, Daylily, Iris, Jacob’s Ladder, Lilies, Lily-of-the-Valley, Peony (divide infrequently), Phlox (creeping & tall), Poppy (oriental), Sweet Woodruff, Trollius.

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Maintaining SHRUBS in your landscape

Montana presents a harsh environment for landscape plants.  High soil pH, low humidity and precipitation, Chinook conditions and fluctuating winter temperatures can take their tole on even the hardiest plants.  To maintain a beautiful landscape, it is very important to give your shrubs the proper care they need to thrive.  

Watering Shrubs
Examine the soil 4 to 8 inches deep to determine the need for water.  If the soil feels dry or just slightly damp, water is needed.  Water slowly allowing it to penetrate deeply and soak the entire root zone.  A drip irrigation system is ideal for shrubs.  If using a drip system, install 1-2 1ghp emitters per shrub and run for 4-8 hours, once or twice a week.  If you do use a sprinkler system or if you hand water, be sure to soak the root system thoroughly.  Avoid short, frequent watering, as this encourages the development of shallow root systems, which are vulnerable to drought, heat stress, and freezing injury. 

Watering newly planted shrubs - It is crucial that all newly planted shrubs are watered routinely and thoroughly.  With our hot, dry, windy summers, we must not neglect new plantings.  The frequency of watering, however, depends greatly upon soil type and current weather conditions.

• In sandy, well-drained soil, water deeply about every 2-3 days until plants are established (about 30 days), and every 5-7 days after that

• Plants in heavier soil will require water less often.  They will need a deep soaking about every 4-5 days until established (about 30 days) and every 7-10 days thereafter.

• Under hot and/or windy conditions, shrubs will require water more often.  In cooler weather or periods of heavy rain, water less often.

• When watering shrubs located on a hillside, remember to water slowly and deeply.  If you are not careful, water will run off before it has a chance to soak in.

Certain plants, until established, will require more water than others.  Some that need more water than normal are:  hydrangea, potentilla, arborvitae (cedar), roses, spirea, dogwood, and many perennials and other shrubs that were in smaller pots.

Do not over water, that is, water too often.  Plants must breath as well as drink and saturated soils do not contain enough oxygen.  Remember, “you can’t water you plants too much at one time, but you can water too often”.  Make sure your plants aren’t constantly flooded.

Early fall watering – Special care must be taken to make sure shrubs enter the winter completely dormant and yet have an ample supply of sub-surface water to get through the winter.  To accomplish this, gradually withhold water in the fall (after mid Sept.).  This slows growth and helps the plant become dormant.  Continue this drying for 4 - 6 weeks.

Late fall watering – It is very important to water all plants heavily in the late fall – about the 1st of November – before the ground freezes.  Add enough water to fill the entire root zone, and more, to capacity.  This stored moisture will be available to the plant roots beneath the frozen layer of soil during the winter.  This is especially true of evergreens or anything planted in late summer or fall.

Winter watering – If the winter is unusually warm, dry and windy, or if your plants are in an exposed, sunny location, it may be necessary to thoroughly water evergreens and newly planted shrubs once a month in the winter.  This is especially true for evergreens due to the amount of water needles can use on a sunny winter day.

Fertilizing
Shrubs should not need to be fertilized the first year.  Fertilizers can “burn” tender new roots or stimulate crown growth faster than the roots can supply water.  Be sure your shrubs need fertilizer before you fertilize them.  If a plant is healthy, showing no nutrient deficiencies, and making satisfactory growth, it probably does not need to be fertilized.  To determine if your shrubs need fertilizing you should have your soil tested.  You can also look for symptoms of nutrient deficiency such as yellowing, stunted growth or twisted, deformed foliage.  The best time to fertilize established shrubs is in the fall after the leaves fall from deciduous plants but about 1 month before the ground freezes.  The second best time to fertilize is in early spring after the danger of severe cold has passed, but before the buds begin to swell.  Apply no fertilizer between late June and before the fall application time.  There are several methods used to fertilize shrubs.  Ross Fertilizer Stakes are a slow release fertilizer.  They are hard stakes that are hammered into the ground around the drip line of the shrub.  If fertilizing smaller shrubs, you may need to break the stakes into smaller pieces.  These stakes can be used once a year.   Water soluble foliar fertilizers, such as Miracle Gro or Peters, offer a quick but short-lived nutrient boost to your plants.  Plants can be fertilized by this method every one or two weeks.  Broadcast fertilizers are in a granular form and are spread around the drip line of a shrub and left to filter into the soil.  Ross Root Feeder, uses a tool that attaches to a hose and the fertilizer is administered directly to the roots by a metal probe.  This can be done twice a year, in the spring and fall.  This is also a good tool for deep watering your shrubs in a drought situation.   

Mulching
Adding mulch around the base of your plants is a very important part of plant care.  Mulching improves the environment for the tree and shrub roots allowing better infiltration of water, holding soil moisture, limiting weed growth, and reducing injury from lawn mowers and weed trimmers.  It is very important to add mulch to evergreen shrubs, especially arborvitaes.  Apply a 2 – 6” layer of bark, compost or decorative rock on the soil surface around your new plantings.  We recommend using a layer of Typar weed control fabric under decorative rock, this will reduce weed growth and prevents the rock from “sinking” into the ground.  Due to decomposition, bark mulches may need to be replenished every couple of years.

Pruning
Why you should prune shrubs:

• To improve the health of a plant by removing dead, diseased, hazardous, or unsightly branches.

• To enhance flowering and fruiting by opening up a plant for better light penetration.

• To create a fuller look, reduce the size or maintain a special shape or form.
  

Deciduous Shrubs

• Dead, dying and broken branches can be pruned anytime.  Prune them to healthy tissue or to the ground.  When removing infected wood, make the cut with a sterile blade into healthy wood well beyond the point of infection (6-12”).  Sterilize pruning tools before each cut by dipping them into rubbing alcohol. 

• The best time to prune most deciduous shrubs is early spring after severe cold has passed, but before new growth has begun (March). 

• Shrubs that bloom in the spring on last year’s growth should be pruned after flowering.  Spring flowering shrubs are those that bloom with or before purple lilacs such as viburnums, honeysuckle, mockorange and forsythia.  It will not harm the plant if you prune it before it flowers, you will just cut of that year’s buds and will miss out on the flowers.

• Prune in the heat of the summer cautiously, as it can weaken the plant. 

• Do not prune in the late summer or early fall, (late August to early September).  This will stimulate new growth which will be susceptible to frost damage and disease.  

Pruning Deciduous Shrubs:
Thinning- This is a technique in which a few of the oldest stems are removed as near to the base of the shrub as possible or back to a main branch or trunk.  No prominent stub remains.  The result is fresh new growth, a better display of flowers and fruit, and improved air circulation, which helps to prevent disease. 
Heading- This is a technique in which shoots are cut back to a bud or lateral branch.  Such a cut promotes more branching, resulting in a bushier shrub.  Heading-back can also be done to keep a shrub at a fixed size.  Commonly, 1/3 to 2/3 of each cane is removed.  A combination of thinning and heading is an effective way to prune many shrubs.
Rejuvination- For older shrubs, rejuvination of the entire plant sometimes becomes necessary.  Species such as mockorange, spirea, potentilla, lilac and dogwood respond well to cutting all stems back to four to eight inches from the ground.  This is best done over 3 to 4 years.  Removing 1/4 to 1/3 of the old stems each year.

Pruning Hedges

• A variety of deciduous or evergreen shrubs can be pruned into a formal or informal hedge.

• The formal hedge is sheared to a definite size and shape.  This must be pruned regularly to look good, at least twice a year.

• The best time to prune hedges is the late dormant season before new growth starts.  They may be sheared either before new growth starts or after they have completed spring growth in late June.  Fast growing plants may be sheared several times a season.

• To develop a hedge that is well filled at the base, always trim so that the base is wider that the top.  If the top is allowed to become wider that the base, the base will become thin and open. 

• The informal hedge is often a row or grouping of shrubs planted close together but allowed to grow normally.  It is usually pruned annually by thinning 1/4 to 1/3 of the oldest wood to the ground and heading back the branches to maintain a desired height and width.

Pruning Evergreen Shrubs

Pines and Spruces

Pines and spruce are slow growing and usually don’t need much pruning if planted in the right place that allows them to reach their mature size.

Pines and spruces may be pruned in the spring (usually in June) when the new shoots, which look like candles, develop.  When the “candle” has extended about to its full length, before the needles are fully developed, remove about 1/2  to 2/3 of the length of the “candle”.  This will reduce length and  promote compactness. 

Do not prune back to the “woody” part of the stem leaving a stub.  New growth will not emerge from this cut.

Junipers and Arborvitae

More compact junipers result when long branches are pruned back to their junction at a lateral branch during early spring.  Cuts should be made “back in” so that new growth will soon cover exposed stubs.

Green foliage must remain on branches of junipers and arborvitae that are cut back.  They can seldom develop new growth from bare stubs. 

Severe pruning should be done in early spring before new growth emerges.  Light pruning or shearing may be done any time, as well as pruning broken or dead branches.

Arborvitae and juniper develop a dead zone in the center of the plants.  When pruning is done either on the tip or the sides, cuts should not be made into the dead zone.  Overgrown plants can not be pruned back more than 20%.

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Maintaining TREES in your landscape

Montana presents a harsh environment for trees.  High soil pH, low humidity and precipitation, Chinook conditions and fluctuating winter temperatures can take their tole on even the hardiest trees.  To maintain a beautiful landscape, it is very important to give your trees the proper care they need to thrive. 

Watering Trees
Examine the soil 4 to 8 inches deep to determine the need for water.  If the soil feels dry or just slightly damp, water is needed.  Water slowly allowing it to penetrate deeply and soak the entire root zone.  A slow trickle of the garden hose for several hours or a drip system is the best method of watering trees.  If using a drip system, install 2-3 1gph emitters per tree and run the system for 4-8 hours once or twice a week.  Avoid short, frequent watering, as these encourage the development of shallow root systems, which are vulnerable to drought, heat stress, and freezing injury. 
Watering newly planted trees - It is crucial that all newly planted trees are watered routinely and thoroughly.  With our hot, dry, windy summers, we must not neglect new plantings.  The frequency of watering depends greatly upon soil type and weather conditions.

• In sandy, well-drained soil, water deeply about every 3 days until plants are established (about 30 days), and every 5-7 days after that.

• Plants in heavier soil will require water less often.  They will need a deep soaking about every 5 days until established (about 30 days) and every 7-10 days thereafter.

• Under hot and/or windy conditions, plants will require water more often.  In cooler weather or periods of heavy rain, water less often.

• When watering trees located on a hillside, water slowly and deeply.  If you are not careful, water will run off before it has a chance to soak in.

• Certain trees, until established, will require more water than others, such as:  birch, arborvitae (cedar), aspen, willows, and any trees that were in smaller pots.

• Do not over water, that is, water too often.  Plants must breath as well as drink and saturated soils do not contain enough oxygen.  Remember, “you can’t water your plants too much at one time, but you can water too often”.  Make sure your plants aren’t constantly flooded. 
  

Early fall watering – Special care must be taken to make sure trees enter the winter completely dormant and yet have an ample supply of sub-surface water to get through the winter.  To accomplish this, gradually withhold water in the fall (after mid Sept.)  This slows growth and helps the plant become dormant.  Continue this drying for 4 - 6 weeks. 
Late fall watering – It is very important to water all trees heavily in the late fall – about the 1st of November – before the ground freezes.  Add enough water to fill the entire root zone, and more, to capacity.  This stored moisture will be available to the plant roots beneath the frozen layer of soil during the winter.  This is especially true of evergreens or anything planted in late summer or fall.

Winter watering – If the winter is unusually warm, dry and windy, or if the plants are in a sunny, exposed location, it may be necessary to thoroughly water your trees once a month in the winter.  This is especially true for evergreens due to the amount of water needles can use on a sunny winter day.

Mulching
Adding mulch around the base of your trees is a very important part of plant care.  Mulching improves the environment for the tree roots allowing better infiltration of water, holding soil moisture, limiting weed growth, and reducing injury from lawn mowers and weed trimmers.  Apply a 2 – 6” layer of bark, compost or decorative rock on the soil surface around your new plantings.  Keep the mulch material from direct contact with the tree trunk to prevent crown rot.  We recommend using a layer of Typar weed control fabric under decorative rock, this will reduce weed growth and prevents the rock from “sinking” into the ground.  Due to decomposition, bark mulches may need to be replenished every couple of years.

Staking
With the exception of smaller trees or ones planted in protected areas, we recommend staking all trees for the first year.  Use 2 or 3 tree slings around the lower trunk attached with wire to vertical stakes of wood or steel, depending on the size of the tree.  Do not use wire through a section of garden hose around the trunk.  Do not stake the tree too tightly – allow the tree to sway slightly in the wind.  Do not leave stakes on for more than one year.  After one year the tree should have developed a strong enough root system to support it in windy conditions.  Allowing the tree to sway helps it to develop a stronger, more resilient trunk than those staked for several years.  Trunk movement is required to develop strong, tapered trunks.

Pests and Diseases
A healthy tree is much less susceptible to diseases and pests.  If you maintain the health of your tree with proper watering, fertilizing, etc., you should not have many problems.  Regularly inspect your trees so you can catch a problem before it causes considerable damage.  Before spraying your trees, it is important that you know exactly what it is you are spraying for.  You don’t want to spray an insecticide on your tree when it is actually a fungus that is doing the damage.  If you are unsure what the problem is, bring us the bug, a leaf, stem or photo of your tree.  We will try to determine the cause and suggest an appropriate solution.  The extension service is also a great resource for information. 

Fertilizing
Trees should not need to be fertilized the first year.  Fertilizers can “burn” tender new roots or stimulate crown growth faster than the roots can supply water.  Be sure your trees need fertilizer before you fertilize them.  If a plant is healthy, showing no nutrient deficiencies, and making satisfactory growth, it probably does not need to be fertilized.  To determine if your trees need fertilizing you should have your soil tested.  You can also look for symptoms of nutrient deficiency such as yellowing, stunted growth or twisted, deformed foliage.  The best time to fertilize established trees is in the fall after the leaves fall from deciduous plants but about 1 month before the ground freezes.  The second best time to fertilize is in early spring after the danger of severe cold has passed, but before the buds begin to swell.  Apply no fertilizer between late June and before the fall application time.  There are several methods used to fertilize trees.  Ross Fertilizer Stakes are a slow release fertilizer.  They are hard stakes that are hammered into the ground around the drip line of the tree.  These can be used once a year.   Water soluble foliar fertilizers, such as Miracle Gro or Peters, offer a quick but short-lived nutrient boost to your plants.  Plants can be fertilized by this method every one or two weeks.  Broadcast fertilizers are in a granular form and are spread around the drip line of a tree or shrub and left to filter into the soil.  Ross Root Feeder, uses a tool that attaches to a hose and the fertilizer is administered directly to the roots by a metal probe.  This can be done twice a year, in the spring and fall.  This is also a good tool for deep watering your trees in a drought situation.   

Trunk Protection
Trunk protection may be needed to prevent damage to young trees or trees with thin bark.  Make sure the material you use is loose on the trunk to allow air flow which will discourage insects and diseases. Protection from mowers and weed trimmers:  A short trunk guard can be placed at the base of the tree.  This can be kept on the tree year round.  Protection from animal damage:  To prevent deer or rodent damage, a wire mesh can be installed around the trunk.  This can be kept on year round.  Protection from environmental damage like sun scald or frost cracks:  In the winter, extreme temperature changes can cause frost cracks and sunscald on the southwest side of the trunk.  To help prevent this, in the late fall, place a white corrugated trunk protector on the tree up to the first branches.  Remove the trunk protector in the spring.

Pruning Trees

Pruning Deciduous Trees:
Thinning cuts remove branches to a lateral branch big enough to assume the dominant role.  Branches being cut may be smaller, the same size, or no more that twice the size of the branch being thinned to.  For example, if a 6” branch is being removed, thin it back to one no less than 3” in diameter.  A thinning cut opens a tree up, reduces the weight of limbs, can reduce the overall height and helps retain the natural growth.
Heading cuts remove branches to a stub, to a small bud, or to a lateral branch not large enough to assume the dominant role.  This type of cut induces branching and bushiness below the cut.  Heading cuts, which are commonly used for fruit trees, are usually not appropriate for ornamental and shade trees.  Topping a tree is cutting all its major branches back with heading cuts deep into the center of the tree.  This is NOT an acceptable pruning practice.  Topping results in a deformed tree with weak branches.  These trees are often more susceptible to insects and diseases and are a hazard due to the weakly attached branches that grow from the large cut.

Pruning Pines and Spruces:

Pines and spruce are slow growing and usually don’t need much pruning if planted in the right place that allows them to reach their mature size.

Pines and spruces may be pruned in the spring (usually in June) when the new shoots, which look like candles, develop.  When the “candle” has extended about to its full length, before the needles are fully developed, remove about 1/2  to 2/3 of the length of the “candle”.  This will reduce length and  promote compactness.  

Don’t prune into the “woody” part of the stem leaving a stub. New growth will not emerge from this cut.

Why you should prune trees:

To train young trees to create an attractive shape and a strong structure.

To improve the health of a tree by removing dead, diseased, hazardous, or unsightly branches.

To enhance flowering and fruiting by opening up a tree for better light penetration.

To create a fuller look, reduce the size or maintain a special shape or form.

When you should prune trees:

Suckers, water sprouts, dead, dying and broken branches can be pruned anytime.  When removing infected wood, make the cut with a sterile blade into healthy wood well beyond the point of infection (6-12”).  Sterilize pruning tools before each cut by dipping them into rubbing alcohol.

The ideal time to prune most deciduous trees is during the late dormant season after severe cold has passed, but before new growth has begun (March).  Sap may flow heavily from trees such as maple, dogwood, birch, elm and walnut.  This “bleeding” is not harmful, but is unsightly.  To prevent this, you may want to prune these trees in the early summer after they have leafed out.

Prune in the heat of the summer cautiously, as it can weaken the plant.

Do not prune in the late summer or fall.  This will stimulate new growth which will be susceptible to frost damage and disease.  

What you should remove when pruning:

Remove damaged or dead branches.

Remove crossing or rubbing branches, as they result in wounds, decay, and notches.

Remove water sprouts and suckers from the base of the tree or shrub.  These are rapid growing, weekly attached shoots that should be removed as soon as

possible because they are unsightly and drain energy from the tree.

Trees should have one strong central leader.  If the tree seems to be developing two or more strong leaders you should choose the one with the best placement to be the leader, shortening the others into a pleasing and appropriate form.  This should be done when the tree is young.

We do not recommend putting anything on a pruning cut.  Paints or wound dressings do no good and may even harm your tree.

When removing a branch, always cut outside the branch bark ridge and collar. Do not make a flush cut. This will allow the tree to heal faster.

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Growing ROSES in Montana

Once upon a time, in the days of yore, a goddess arose from the sea.  This exquisite beauty was Venus, the goddess of love.  Upon seeing her, Earth became jealous.  Vowing to create something of equal loveliness, Earth combined the most rapturous fragrance with the most lovely form, thus bestowing upon mankind a great gift; the rose.

Growing Roses

Exposure- When deciding  where to plant your roses, remember that they need full sun.  Ideally 8-10 hours of sunlight a day.  Afternoon sun is preferable because it’s warmer, and encourages better growth. 

Soil- Soil conditions are very important for roses.  Incorporating compost along with bone meal to your rose bed at planting time will greatly improve the health of your plants.  All roses prefer fertile, well-drained, moist soil.  They will not tolerate waterlogged soil at any time of the year.  If you have heavy clay soil, it may be necessary to build a raised bed to ensure adequate drainage.  All roses, even the hardiest varieties, should have a layer of mulch around the roots to help retain soil moisture and provide winter protection.

Watering- Water deeply and regularly (twice a week) in the morning, and only at the base of the rose.  It is preferable to use drip irrigation and not overhead sprinklers.  This keeps the leaves as dry as possible, which keeps diseases down.  Water less frequently from early fall on.  Allow the soil to become slightly drier in order to slow down the roses’ growth and allow them to go dormant.  Water heavily a few weeks before the ground freezes, usually the first of November, to prevent the roots from being damaged from cold, dry soil.

Air Circulation- Air movement is very important for optimum health.  Gentle breezes keep the foliage dry which helps to control diseases like black spot and powdery mildew.  Be sure to plant roses far enough apart so there is adequate air circulation between them.

Fertilization- Fertilize established roses once a month in May, June and July when they are actively growing with a granular slow release or water-soluble fertilizer.  Don’t fertilize after the end of July.  This allows the rosebushes to slow down growth in preparation for winter.  In the typical Great Falls soil, it is a good idea to add iron to your soil if your roses show signs of chlorosis or yellowing of the leaves. 

Planting Roses

Bare root- Bare root roses should be planted as soon as possible in the spring.  Be careful not to allow the roots to become dry or freeze.  Before you plant bare root roses, soak them in water to hydrate the roots, then prune off any broken roots and about 1 inch off the ends of all the roots.  This will promote new growth.  Dig a hole large enough for the roots to spread out, about  1½ times as wide and deep.  In the hole make a mound of fine soil for the roots to set on and spread out the roots.  Mix in a handful of bone meal.  If you are planting grafted roses, the graft should be about 4 inches below the soil line.  This will protect the graft from winter injury.  If you are planting non-grafted or own root roses, they should be planted with their root crowns at or slightly below the soil line.  Backfill the hole about ¾ with a mixture of soil and compost.  Water it in to settle the soil and finish backfilling.  Form a watering well around the base of the plant to hold in water and add a layer of mulch.

Containerized- Container grown roses can be planted any time during the growing season up to 2-3 weeks before the ground freezes.  Water the container well.  Dig a hole as deep as the container and twice as wide.  Remove from the pot and loosen the roots.  Set in the hole and backfill about ¾ with a mixture or soil and compost.  If the plant is not rooted in, follow instructions in handout.  If the rose is grafted, plant it deeper as with a bare root.

Pest and Disease Control

The best way to control pests and diseases on your roses is to inspect them on a regular basis.  By doing this, you will catch the problem early before it damages your rose.  Remember that it is always easier to prevent diseases and pests than to try to control them after they have damaged your plant.  Insects and diseases strike plants that are stressed or weak.  So it is very important to keep your roses healthy by giving them adequate moisture and fertilizer, allowing air circulation around the plant and keeping their leaves as dry as possible when watering.

Black spot is spread from plant to plant by splashing water.  If your rose plant does have black spot, be sure to clean up diseased leaves after they drop in the fall to prevent the disease from wintering over in the soil and affecting your rose the next year.

Powdery mildew is unsightly but does not kill roses.  It spreads among drought stressed plants when the weather is cool and humid.  Adequate air circulation will usually help to prevent powdery mildew.

Mosaic virus creates strange leaf patterns including bright yellow ring spots, lines and netting.  There is no cure for mosaic virus and the affected rosebushes won’t pass on the disease to others nearby or contaminate the soil.  It shortens the life span of the rose and in most cases it is best to just remove the rose bush and replace it with a healthy one.

Spider mites and aphids are common pests on rose bushes.  These pests will not kill the plant, but are unsightly and decrease the plants vigor.  Several products are available to control pests and disease.  Rose Spray II is a liquid insecticide and fungicide in one.  Systemic Rose Care is a granular fertilizer and insecticide in one.   Fung-onil is an oil-based fungicide.  Dormant Oil is a non-toxic insecticide.

Rose Varieties and Care

Hardy shrub roses are free blooming plants with differing flower sizes and forms but all have a full bushy attractive habit.  Shrub roses usually have good disease resistance, are very hardy, and mostly grown on their own roots which make them much more resilient to our harsh winters (if they die back to the ground, the same rose will re-grow from the roots).  They don’t need special pruning in the fall and don’t require winter protection.  The only pruning necessary is in the spring to thin out dead branches and to shape.  Remove spent flowers throughout the summer, which will promote more flowering.  Stop deadheading about the end of August to allow rose hips to form.  This allows the rose to become dormant for winter.

Hardy climbing roses, like shrub roses, do not require winter protection.  Climbing roses should not be pruned the first two or three years except to remove dead wood or to train.  The main objective during the first few years is to let the rose establish mature canes.  Tie these canes loosely to a trellis with soft material as to not damage the stems. Climbing roses need to be supported, as they do not have self-clinging or twining tendrils like many climbing vines.

Tender roses, such as hybrid tea, miniature, floribunda and grandiflora will survive our harsh climates, but do need additional care.  When planting, bury the graft union about 2 inches below the soil.  In the fall cut back your roses (see pruning on next page) and clean up any leaves around your roses.  They may harbor over wintering insect pests and disease spores.  In the fall, cover your rose with a mound of mulch to a minimum depth of 10”.  To prevent the mulch from being blown away, sprinkle a bit of soil over the top.  Spray the surface of the mound with water, which will eventually freeze to form a crust.  In the spring watch the native trees.  As soon as their leaf buds start to swell, the area is pretty much safe from hard frosts, and protective mulch coverings can be removed.  Lift the mulch off with your hands, rather than pulling off with a rake, to avoid damaging tender new growth.  If mulches are not removed at this point, the roses will start to produce growth that is weak and spindly.  After removing the mulch prune your rose as described on the next page.

Pruning Roses

Hardy shrub roses need little pruning.  Just remove the dead branches or branch tips in early spring as the buds are beginning to swell. 

When making cuts, prune to an outward growing bud.  Angle the cut about 45 degrees.

Remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood and weak canes any time you see them.  When removing diseased canes, sterilize the shears by dipping them in alcohol or a chlorine solution between each cut.

Damage may extend into wood that looks healthy on the outside; keep cutting until the pith at the center of the cane is white to light green.

Remove crossing or inward growing canes so your rose is more open which allows better air circulation and light penetration.

Once a hardy shrub rose is three to four years old, it’s a good idea to remove one-quarter to one-third of the oldest, thickest canes.  Prune them off at ground level to stimulate the growth of new canes, which will produce more flowers.

Tender roses can be pruned in the fall or spring.  If you are pruning tender roses in the fall, cut them back to 1 foot tall. This way you are left with a shorter bush to mulch and no thorny branches to scratch you.  There are also no long canes that can sway in the wind and pull apart the protective mulch.  If you prune your roses in the fall, you may need to prune them lightly again in the spring to remove any winterkilled branch tips.  During a mild winter, tender roses may not die back as much as they do during a harsher winter.  By waiting until spring to prune, you may end up with taller rosebushes.  When cutting flowers for display, sever the stem just above a leaf with five leaflets.

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Growing CLEMATIS in Montana

Clematis are the aristocrats of climbers; their rich colors and varied bloom times enable the gardener to have masses of bloom from spring to fall.  To accomplish this, varieties with different bloom times can be grown together or planted in complimentary areas of the garden.  Clematis can be chosen to enrich any garden to provide a full growing season of interest.  In the fall, feathery seed heads follow the clematis’ tropical-like flowers, often lasting into winter.

Growing Conditions

The old adage of “their heads in the sun and their feet in the shade” holds true for all clematis in our climate.  The tops prefer 5 to 6 hours of sunlight while their roots prefer cool and damp (but not soggy) conditions.  To achieve this, shade the roots with shallow rooted plantings at its base or with a thick layer of mulch.  Avoid planting your clematis in an extremely hot, sunny area or where it will receive a great deal of reflective heat.  An area where it receives all day, filtered sun or morning sun is ideal.  Clematis vines climb by wrapping their leaf stalks around a support.  Thin wooden stakes, wire or mesh trellises, and chain-link fences provide the right conditions for easy climbing. 

Planting

Clematis need to be planted in cool, moist, deep, well drained soil.  They require plenty of water and regular, balanced feeding.  A little special preparation will ensure the proper environment.  Dig a hole eighteen inches deep by eighteen inches wide.  Cover the bottom with a good rich compost or well-rotted manure.  A hand full of bone meal mixed with your soil is always a good idea.  Add enough topsoil to cover the compost:  now you are ready to plant.  Place your well-watered clematis in the hole so that several inches of stem is below the soil line (provided the stem has become a bit woody).  Back fill with good quality topsoil.  Young plants that have green succulent stems need to be planted deep, but not back filled until the stem becomes woody which can take six or seven months.
Pruning — There is quite a bit of confusion about how to prune clematis.  It is actually quite simple if you know what variety of clematis you have.  If your clematis is pruned wrong, the plant will not be damaged, but it may not flower as well as it would otherwise.  If all varieties of clematis were left unpruned, they would all flower very well.  However, the flowers would not necessarily cover the plant as well as they could and you may have a vine that quickly becomes out of control.  There are basically 3 pruning groups:

Group A- Varieties that produce flowers on previous year’s growth.  We will not discuss this group because they are not hardy in our area.

Group B1- Normal blooming patterns for this group consist of a heavy flush of flowers in May-June on the previous season’s growth followed by a second smaller flush of blooms in September on the current season’s growth.  The first February or March after planting, cut back the clematis close to the ground leaving two sets of buds on each stem between where you make your cut and soil level.  In subsequent years a light pruning with some variation in the length of the stems will help produce a well-balanced vine.  Any weak or dead wood should be removed.  You can also simplify your pruning by cutting the entire plant to 3 feet above ground.  If your clematis has been neglected for several years, it can be rejuvenated by severely cutting back to the ground.

Group B2- Varieties that bloom simultaneously on last year’s growth and the current season’s growth.  These varieties normally bloom from June to September continuously.  The first February or March after planting, cut back the clematis close to the ground leaving two sets of buds on each stem between where you make your cut and soil level.  In subsequent years follow pruning directions for either group B1 or C.

Group C- These varieties bloom only on the current year’s growth from early summer to fall.  Plants should be cut back in late February or March of each year to two strong sets of buds on each stem as close to the ground level as possible.  This will provide a plant with blooms that start near ground level and continue to the top of the plant.  If you would like your Group C clematis to start blooming at a higher level, like the top of a fence, prune it to that height.

Fertilizing

In the early spring as soon as new shoots begin to grow is the time to begin feeding your clematis.  A generous mulch of compost mixed with a handful of bone meal worked into the soil is a good way to start.  Once your clematis is actively growing an application of a general-purpose liquid fertilizer every two weeks will help get your plant underway.  A fertilizer designed to set fruit on vegetables or produce flowers in the garden will give you the maximum number of blooms.  Granular slow release fertilizers also work well in place of liquid feed.  As soon as the buds are well formed discontinue feeding until after your clematis has finished flowering.  By doing this, you will get the longest bloom period as possible.  All feeding should stop in mid-August.  The plants need time to slow down and settle in for winter.  If feeding continues into the fall the soft growth promoted by this feed will be damaged by winter frosts.

Varieties

Ernest Markham — Pruning group C.  Zone 3                                     

One of the strongest growers.  Bright magenta-red 5-6” flowers from July to September.  Height 8-12’.

Golden or Tangutica — Pruning group C.  Zone 2

1.5” nodding golden yellow flowers.  Free flowering from July to September followed by attractive feathery seed heads.  Height 15-20’.

Hagley Hybrid - Pruning group C.  Zone 4. 

Pale mauve pink flowers.  A repeat bloomer from June to September.  Height 6-8’.

Henryi — Pruning group B2.  Zone 3                                                    

7-9” creamy-white flowers with dark stamens bloom from June to September.  Height 8-14’.

Jackmanii — Pruning group C.  Zone 2                                              

The best known, easiest to grow clematis.  Deep purple 4-6” flowers bloom from mid-June through August.  Height 12-20’.

Nelly Moser — Pruning group B1.  Zone 3                                            

7-9” pastel mauve-pink with carmine flowers bloom from May to September.  Height 8-12’.

Niobe—Pruning group B or C. Zone 4. 

Dark ruby red flowers from June to September.  Height 8-10’.

Roguchi — Pruning group C.  Zone 4                                         

2” cobalt blue bell-shaped flowers bloom from June to September.  Height 6’.

Will Goodwin — Pruning group B2.  Zone 3                                    

6-7” blue flowers with gold stamens are produced from May through September.  Height 10’.

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Growing ORNAMENTAL GRASSES in Montana

Ornamental grasses have been used in European and Asian gardens for centuries.  It is only in recent years that they have become popular in the United States.  Gardeners have been looking for interesting plants that require little care and maintenance while still providing year round interest.  Ornamental grasses have filled this niche with their attractive forms, colors, textures and elements of sound and movement.

Throughout the year the upright, mounding and cascading forms of our many grasses complement the garden’s perennials and shrubs.  From blue to rich green, variegated and solid-colored blades provide gentle summer sounds as they sway in the breeze.  As the warm days and cooler nights of autumn alter the perennial garden, grasses come into their ‘heyday’.  Fall flowers may be silvers or tans or purples, and as delicate as fairy wings, as familiar as oats or as flamboyant as ostrich feathers.  Many grasses alter their colors as the season moves into winter, turning from greens to reds or coppery browns.  Whatever the need, grasses are more than a ground cover and can stand (or sway) well on their own.

Planting

Ornamental grasses can be planted anytime of the year if they are container grown.  Determine spacing needs according to the desired landscape effect and the plant’s setting.  A general rule of thumb is to space plants equal to their mature height (plants 4 feet tall are spaced 4 feet apart), but you can use more or less space to achieve a desired effect.  For example, grasses used as a hedge or screen can be planted closer together, while individual specimens are typically spaced further apart.

Watering

Grasses should be well watered the first season so they can develop a good root system.  Established ornamental grasses rarely need irrigation except in cases of drought or very sandy soil.  The amount of water will depend on the species of grass, the site and the weather.

Fertilizing

Unless your soil is very poor, it is generally not recommended to fertilize ornamental grasses.  Over-fertilizing will result in excessive weak growth, which will blow over in the first strong wind.

Cutting back

Cut back ornamental grasses to about 4-6 inches in the spring before new growth emerges.  Be careful not to cut into the crown of the plant.  If the grasses are not cut back, spring growth will be delayed and the plants will be unattractive late into the growing season.  Blue Fescue and Blue Oat Grass will retain living blue leaves through the winter.  Trim back just the dead and winter burned blades on the Blue Fescue and trim the Blue Oat Grass to 8 inches.  Manual trimming with a string or electric hedge trimmer works well for small areas.  Large grasses are easier to cut back if they are tied together first and cut with sharp hedge shears.  Be sure to wear gloves to protect your hands as the grass blades can be sharp.  Large areas can be burned, if burning is permitted and closely supervised.  Do not cut or burn in the fall, because winter injury may result, and the winter beauty of the plants will be lost.

Dividing

Divide grasses in the spring if the center of the plant shows little or no growth or if you want to produce more plants.  To do this, dig out the plant and cut with a hacksaw, sharp spade or knife into as many plants as needed and replant.  This is a great way to acquire new plants for free.

Desirable traits

• Very few insect or disease problems, resulting in less chemical spraying.
• Low nutrient requirements, which means no fertilizing needed.
• Little maintenance (except spring cutback) once established.
• Most grasses have moderate water requirements once established.
• More than one season of interest; flowering in spring, summer, or fall, with beauty and color lasting into winter.
• Fast growth; for example, some large plants grow 5-8 ft. tall by the second year.
• Varied textures, from fine fescues to coarse giant miscanthus.
• Foliage colors of blue, yellow, bronze and red, as well as variegated white and yellow.
• Movement with the wind, which provides interesting sounds as well as beauty.
• Most grasses are deer resistant.
  

Varities we carry

PERENNIAL GRASS:

AVALANCHE FEATHER REED GRASS
Calamogrostis acutiflora ‘Avalanche’
Height:  3-4 feet     Spread:  2-3 feet
Full sun to part shade    Zone:  4
An attractive clump forming grass with variegated foliage. White, tinged pink flower spikes emerge June to Sept. An improvement over the variety of ‘Overdam’. Tolerates a wide range of soil types and is drought tolerant once established. 

BIG BLUESTEM GRASS
Andropogon gerardii
Height:  4-7 feet     Spread:  4 feet
Full sun to part shade    Zone:  4
A native North American Prairie Grass forming a large clump of silvery-blue foliage. Purplish flower spikes emerge in Aug. and Sept. Prefers moist, fertile soil but drought tolerant once established. Thrives in either heavy or sandy soil. 

BLUE HEAVEN LITTLE BLUE STEM
Schizachyrium scoparium ‘MinnblueA’
Height:  4-5 feet     Spread: 2-2.5 feet
Full sun     Zone:  3
Attractive blue foliage changes in the fall to shades of red, burgundy and purple. Clump forming. Prefers well drained soil.

BLUE OAT GRASS
Helictotrichon sempervirens
Height:  2-3 feet     Spread:  2 feet
Full sun or light shade     Zone:  3
Tufted evergreen grass with narrow blue-gray foliage. It adds a unique color accent to sunny borders. In the summer, upright stems bear straw colored flowers. It is tolerant of heavy soil but prefers good drainage.

BLUE OAT GRASS - SAPPHIRE
Helictotrichon sempervirens ‘Saphirsprudel’
Height:  2.5 feet     Spread:  2-2.5 feet
Full sun or light shade     Zone:  4
Tufted evergreen grass with narrow bright steel blue foliage. It adds a unique color accent to sunny borders. In the summer, upright stems bear straw colored flowers. It is tolerant of heavy soil but prefers good drainage.

ELDORADO FEATHER REED GRASS
Calamagrostis acutiflora ‘Eldorado’
Height:  4-5 feet     Spread:  2 feet   
Full sun    Zone:  4
The narrow, green leaves have a bright gold center which radiates out in the sunlight.  Attractive tan wheat-like seed heads appear in early summer and last all season long.  ‘Eldorado’ prefers to be grown in full sun and well-drained soil.  Be sure to provide plenty of moisture in extremely hot weather.

HEAVY METAL SWITCH GRASS
Panicum virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’
Height:  3-4 feet     Spread:  2-3 feet   
Full sun     Zone:  3
Metallic blue foliage all season that turns yellow and red in autumn. Wonderful addition to the back of the border or mass planted. Attractive airy flower heads. Prefers moist, well-drained soils.

KARL FOERSTER FEATHER REED GRASS
Calamagrostis x acutiflora
Height:  4.5-5 feet     Spread:  3 feet
Full sun to part shade     Zone:  4
Stiff, upright flowers are pink in July, turning beige by August creating a wheat-like appearance. Finely cut leaves create an elegant background. Good fall color adds value to this highly ornamental grass. Tolerates a wide range of soil types, but thrives in clay soil. Can grow in wet, boggy areas as well as dry areas.

LYME BLUE DUNE GRASS
Elymus arenarius ‘Blue Dune’
Height:  24 inches     Spread:  varies
Full Sun or Light Shade     Zone:  4
Outstanding intense pastel blue foliage with beige flowers in August and September. It is extremely tough and very aggressive, spreading quickly by stolons. Give this grass room to grow or plant in an area where it can be contained. 

PRAIRIE SKY SWITCH GRASS
Panicum virgatum ‘Prairie Sky’
Height:  4-5 feet     Spread:  2-3 feet   
Full sun    Zone:  4
An attractive clump forming grass with incredible blue tones to the foliage. Showy, silvery-pink plumes rise above the foliage in summer. Makes an excellent accent or specimen plant. Prefers moist soil.

SHENANDOAH SWITCH GRASS
Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’
Height:  3-4 feet     Spread:  2-3 feet   
Full sun     Zone:  4
A beautiful grass with soft, true green foliage in summer. By July dark red tones appear on the leaves, then the whole plant turns a powerful burgundy in late fall. Flowers in late summer with airy rose colored plumes. Fast growing. Prefers well drained soils.

SKYRACER MOOR GRASS
Molina caerulea ‘Skyracer’
Height:  6-7.5 feet     Spread:  3 feet   
Full sun to part shade     Zone:  4
Purplish flower plumes rise above dark green, clumping foliage that turns a beautiful gold in the fall. Prefers a moist, well drained soil.

THE BLUES LITTLE BLUESTEM GRASS
Schizachyrium scoparium ‘The Blues’
Height:  3 feet     Spread:  2 feet
Full sun     Zone:  4
A native American prairie grass which derives its name from the blue color present at the base of the clump. The attractive blue-green foliage turns a rich red-orange color after a frost. Prefers a well drained soil.

TUFTED HAIR GRASS
Deschampsia caespitosa
Height:  2 feet     Spread:  2 feet
Part shade     Zone:  4
An evergreen, deep green tufted grass. Normally grown in moist, boggy sites, and will do best in a moist site. Produces delicate flowers in June that rise 2 feet above the plant and remain showy into winter. Use in mass plantings to enhance the flower effect.

VARIEGATED MOOR GRASS
Molina caerulea ‘Variegata’
Height:  30 inches     Spread:  30 inches   
Full sun to part shade     Zone:  3
Bright yellow and green, striped leaves. Showy in the fall, when the foliage glows with soft hues of gold and orange, accompanied y purplish flower plumes. Prefers moist, well drained soils.

ANNUAL GRASS:

PURPLE FOUNTAIN GRASS
Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’
Height:  2 feet     Spread:  2 feet   
Full sun     Zone:  8
This grass is an annual in our climate. This drought-tolerant grass forms neat clumps with purplish-maroon blades topped by rose-red flower spikes summer through fall. An excellent grass for containers

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Growing APPLES in Montana

Growing apples can be an enjoyable part of home gardening, but demands a year-round and year-to-year commitment by the gardener.  In addition to the personal satisfaction of tree-ripened apples, apple trees have considerable landscape value.  Properly cared for, they are attractive in form and display beautiful flowers in the spring.

Soil

Apple trees perform best in a deep, fertile, well-drained, sandy loam soil. However, depending on the root-stock they are grafted on to, heavier soils are tolerated as long as the drainage is adequate. Apple trees will not tolerate “wet feet”, which makes them susceptible to root diseases. If your soil is heavy clay, it may be necessary to build up a small berm to plant the tree in.

Planting

Apple trees need to be planted in a full sun location for optimum fruiting. Bare root apple trees should be planted in the spring. This is when bare root trees are most commonly available in nurseries. Containerized trees can be planted any time during the growing season. Apple trees are propagated by grafting or budding a desired variety onto a rootstock. This rootstock determines the size of the tree and its hardiness. Never bury the graft union. Always plant the tree to the same depth as it was grown in the nursery.

Fertilizing

It is not advisable to add fertilizer when planting. Young roots are easily burned and the tree may die back. Use a complete fertilizer in the fall after the leaves have dropped or in the spring after the ground has thawed. Fertilizer stakes are easy to use and provide a slow release fertilizer throughout the growing season. 

Pollination

Apples are generally not self-fertile. Two varieties, planted within 100 feet of each other, should be used to serve as a source of pollen for each other. Cross-pollination is possible only when varieties bloom at approximately the same time. The length of bloom is usually 7 to 10 days. Early bloomers should be planted with early or midseason bloomers and late bloomers with late or midseason bloomers. Crabapples can also be used to pollinate apple trees.

Pruning

There are three kinds of pruning: training, maintenance and corrective. Training is the process of giving desirable structure to fruit trees from 1 to 4 years after planting. This is done primarily to get the framework of branches located for convenience of harvesting and spraying. When a whip is planted, it should be cut back to approximately 30 inches. All side limbs should be cut back to five buds or removed completely. On larger trees, 5 to 8 feet tall, all limbs lower than 2.5 to 3 feet should be removed entirely. No two limbs should arise at the same level on the trunk. Select limbs with a wide branching angle to the trunk or use spreaders to prevent narrow branch angles. Form additional scaffolds of 2 to 4 limbs at 18” to 24” intervals above the first. Maintenance pruning is used to renew fruiting wood, increase fruit size, improve fruit quality by letting more light into the tree, increase the fruit set and remove dead or damaged wood. Corrective pruning, which is often severe, is sometimes needed to reduce tree size and to correct or remove poor limbs. It is also used to rejuvenate trees that have been injured. Pruning can be done any time after the leaves fall in autumn and before bud break in the spring. Apple trees can also be pruned during the summer to remove water sprouts, suckers and broken or damaged stems.

Insects and Diseases

Success in growing apple trees depends on effective control of insects and diseases. Using dormant sprays in early spring before bud break is an effective way to control insects and disease. Codling moth caterpillars are the most serious problems. Trees should be sprayed with Malathion when leaves first start to appear. Repeat at 10 day intervals until bloom. Do not spray during blossom period. Repeat at 14 day intervals after bloom, up to 3 days before harvest.

Sizes

All apple trees that we carry are grafted on to a root stock. This root stock determines the hardiness, fruit bearing age and size of the tree.
Standard trees grow 20-25 feet tall by 25 feet wide. They will begin bearing fruit about 5-8 years after planting and are hardy to Zone 3.
Semi-dwarf trees grow 12-15’ tall by 14 feet wide. They will generally produce fruit 4-5 years after planting. They are hardy to Zone 3 or 4.
Dwarf trees grow 9-12 feet tall by 10 feet wide. They will produce fruit 3-4 years after planting. They are generally freestanding, but in the early years of bearing, some temporary staking may be required to avoid leaning. They are hardy to Zone 3 or 4.

*Dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks will only reduce the size of the tree, not the fruit size. Smaller trees are easier to prune, spray and harvest.

Apple Varieties

Goodland —Zone 4

-Early season bloomer that ripens in late August.
-Fruit is medium sized, washed red over creamy green, crisp, juicy, tender and aromatic.
-Especially good for baking with a short storage life.
-Very hardy and an annual bearer.

Haralred —Zone 3

-Late season bloomer that ripens in early October.
-Fruit is red, juicy, tart and firm.  Good keeper.
-Tree is very hardy and fireblight resistant.
-Good for fresh eating, baking and sauce.

Honeycrisp —Zone 4

-Mid season bloomer that ripens in late September.
-Fruit is crisp, juicy and sweet but well balanced.
-Excellent storage life, up to 7 months.
-Good for fresh eating, baking and sauce

McIntosh —Zone 4

-Mid season bloomer that ripens in late September..
-A well-known older apple that has a sprightly flavor and a medium storage life.  Nearly solid, bright red skin.  Heavy bearer.  Fruit tends to drop when ripe.
-Good for fresh eating and baking.

Prairie Magic —Zone 3

-Early mid season bloomer that ripens in mid-Sept.
-Flesh is crisp and delicious.
-Good disease resistance.

Red Baron —Zone 3

-Mid season bloomer that ripens in mid September.
-Fruit is medium sized, yellow with red and sweet.
-Good for fresh eating, pies and sauces, crisp & juicy.
-Fireblight resistant.

SnowSweet —Zone 4

-Mid season bloomer that ripens mid to late September.
-Has a deliciously sweet, slightly tart taste.
-Above average resistance to Scab & Fireblight.  Cold hardy.

State Fair —Zone 3

-Early season bloomer that ripens mid to late September.
-Fruit is medium sized, red striped, with a sprightly tart flavor, good for eating and baking.  Short storage life.

Sweet Sixteen —Zone 3

-Mid season bloomer that ripens in mid-September.
-Fruit is medium sized, red striped, crisp and juicy with an excellent sweet, unusual flavor.
-Fireblight resistant.
-Good for fresh eating, baking and sauces.  An outstanding dessert apple.

Wealthy —Zone 3

-Early to mid season bloomer that ripens in mid Sept.
-Fruit is striped red and tart.
-Good for cooking.  Very hardy.

Wolf River - Zone 4

-Mid season bloomer that ripens in mid September.
-Fruit is golden green to red and sweet.
-It is a large apple, up to 5”, with firm flesh.
-Excellent for fresh eating, cooking and drying.

Crabapple Varieties

Centennial —Zone 3

-Early season  variety that blooms mid-May.
-Fruit is large, 1 3/4-2 inches long that ripens in mid to late August.  Red over orange.
-Excellent flavor for fresh eating.
-Short storage life.
-Hardy.

Chestnut —Zone 3

-Early to mid season variety that blooms mid-May.
-Pleasant nut-like flavor.
-Large fruit, 2 inches in diameter, ripens in early September.
-Outstanding flavor and good texture for eating.
-Hardy, vigorous, heavy bearing tree.
-Short storage life.

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Growing PEARS, PLUMS, and CHERRIES in Montana

Pear, plum and cherry trees are a welcome addition to any home landscape.  Many varieties will not withstand Montana’s harsh climates, but several hardy varieties have been proven to do just fine in the Great Falls area with proper placement in the landscape, care and maintenance.  These fruit trees not only provide delicious fruit, but also are an attractive landscape tree with their nice form and display of beautiful flowers in the spring.

Soil
Pear, plum and cherry trees perform best in a deep, fertile, well-drained, sandy loam soil.  However, depending on the rootstock that they are grafted onto, plums and pears can tolerate heavier soils as long as the drainage is adequate.  Fruit trees will not tolerate “wet feet”, which makes them susceptible to root diseases.  If your soil is heavy clay, it may be necessary to build up a small berm to plant the trees in.

Planting
Fruit trees need to be planted in a full sun location for optimum fruiting.  Bare root trees should be planted in the spring.  This is when bare root trees are most commonly available in nurseries.  Containerized trees can be planted any time during the growing season.  Most fruit trees are propagated by grafting or budding a desired variety onto a rootstock.  This rootstock determines the size of the tree and its hardiness.  The area at the base of the tree, called the graft union, must be about 6” above the ground after planting.  If this graft union is buried, the tree will eventually deteriorate and die.

Fertilizing
It is not advisable to add fertilizer when planting.  Young roots are easily burned and the tree may die back.  However, after the first year use a complete fertilizer.  Fertilizer stakes are easy to use and provide a slow release fertilizer throughout the growing season.  Avoid using excess amounts of nitrogen fertilizer, which will promote lush green foliar growth, but will decrease the production of fruit or cause the fruit to split.
Pollination
The pear, plum and cherry trees that we carry are all self-pollinating varieties.  However, fruit trees tend to bear more and higher quality fruit when there is another variety planted within 100 feet.

Pruning
Pruning is the heart of good fruit tree management.  Three kinds of pruning are training, maintenance and corrective.  Training is the process of giving desirable structure to fruit trees from 1 to 4 years after planting.  This is done primarily to get the framework of branches located for convenience of harvesting and spraying.  When a whip is planted, it should be headed at approximately 30 inches.  All side limbs should be headed back to five buds or removed completely.  On larger trees, 5 to 8 feet tall, all limbs lower than 2.5 to 3 feet should be removed entirely.  No two limbs should arise at the same level on the trunk.  Select limbs with a wide branching angle to the trunk or use spreaders to prevent narrow branch angles.  Form additional scaffolds of 2 to 4 limbs at 18” to 24” intervals above the first.  Maintenance pruning is used to renew fruiting wood, increase fruit size, improve fruit quality by letting more light into the tree, increase the fruit set and remove dead or damaged wood.  Corrective pruning, which is often severe, is sometimes needed to reduce tree size and to correct or remove poor limbs.  It is also used to rejuvenate trees that have been injured.  Pruning can be done any time after the leaves fall in autumn and before bud break in the spring.  Fruit trees can also be pruned during the summer to remove water sprouts, suckers and broken or damaged stems.

Insects and Diseases
Success in growing fruit trees depends on effective control of insects and diseases.  Using dormant sprays in early spring, while the tree is still dormant, is an effective way to control insects and disease.  Be sure to read and follow all directions.  Some dormant sprays are for insects, some for fungus and some are all purpose sprays that combine fungicides with insecticides.  Remember that it is always much easier to control insects and diseases than to treat them after they have damaged the tree.

Varieties We Carry

Gourmet Pear—Zone 4

-Blooms early May and ripens late September.
-Fruit is medium sized and green-yellow to yellow.
-Flesh yellowish, crisp, juicy and sweet.  A good dessert pear.

Patten Pear—Zone 4

-Blooms mid May and should be harvested in mid September when crisp and green.
-Fruit is good sized and yellow.
-Sweet flavor, good for fresh eating.  Tender and juicy.

Summercrisp Pear— Zone 4

-Blooms mid May and should be harvested in mid August when crisp and still green with a red blush.
-Beautiful red fall color.
-Fruit is 2 1/2-3” in diameter and 3-3 1/2” long, sweet and crisp.
-Can be stored up to 2 months.
-Good for fresh eating.
-Free from fire blight.

Mount Royal Plum— Zone 4

-Blooms in early May and ripens in late August.
-Fruit is medium sized, blue, tender and juicy.
-Good for fresh eating, desserts and preserves.

Bali Cherry—Zone 3

-Blooms in early May and ripens in August.
-Fruit is dark red, 1” diameter and semi-sweet.
-Good for fresh eating.
-A very hardy tree.

Mesabi Cherry—Zone 4

-Blooms in early May and ripens in early July.
-Red-fleshed fruit with sugar content halfway between pie cherries and Bing cherries.
-A sour cherry good for pies or canning. 

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Growing RASPBERRIES in Montana

No other summer fruit grown in Montana can provide the exquisite flavor and high nutritional value of the raspberry.  Raspberries are high in fiber, vitamin C and D and contain more calcium than any other temperate fruit.  Raspberries can be used in a variety of appealing ways.  Use the fruit to make delicious jams, jellies and pies or use them fresh in a variety of desserts.  Raspberries make an excellent small fruit crop for the home gardener.  Two years are required to establish a raspberry planting, but once established, the planting will remain productive for many years to come.

Site Selection

Raspberries grow well on a wide range of soil types, provided they are deep and well drained.  Raspberries require an abundant supply of water but the roots and crowns are extremely sensitive to excessive moisture in poorly drained soils.  They will not tolerate “wet feet”.  If your soil is heavy clay, it may be necessary to build an 18” deep raised bed to plant your raspberries in.  Raspberries prefer a site with high soil organic matter, a PH between 5.5 and 7.0 and full sun.  Select a site that has never previously been planted with tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers and other brambles to minimize the transfer of virus diseases.

Preparing the Ground

Unfortunately, raspberries are poor competitors.  After choosing the best soil and site, be sure to destroy all perennial weeds with cultivation, herbicides, and/or a weed barrier.  Cultivate the soil to a depth of 8-10” adding organic matter to the soil.  Continue to cultivate the soil around the raspberry plants frequently enough to prevent grass and weeds from growing.  Do this shallow enough as to not damage the roots.

Planting

Raspberries are sold by nurseries as bare root or containerized plants.  Bare root plants should be planted 2” deeper than they grew in the nursery in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked.  Be sure not to let the roots become dry or freeze.  Water in the bare root stock well after planting and cut all canes off 1-2” above the ground to force root growth and strong cane development.  Containerized plants are highly reliable and can be planted any time during the growing season.  If planting a row system, place plants 24-30” apart in rows 5-8’ apart.  For planting in hills, space the plants far enough apart each way so you can cultivate between them.  Be sure to mulch your raspberry plants well to help retain moisture and to protect the roots in the winter.

Harvesting

Pick raspberries when they are dry and as soon as they separate easily from the clusters.  At the peak of the season, they can be harvested 2 to 3 times a week.  Handle berries very carefully and either place them in cold storage or use right away.

Fertilization

Raspberries require moderate levels of soil fertility.  They respond well to additions of organic materials to the soil.  Shortly after planting, a general application of fertilizer is recommended containing equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.  Use either a slow release fertilizer in early spring or, if using a quick-release fertilizer, apply half of the fertilizer in the early spring, just as growth is beginning and apply the second half at the beginning of bloom.

Irrigation

Raspberries need more moisture than most fruits.  Most cultivars require about one inch of water per week during the growing season.  Extreme warm and windy conditions make greater amounts of water necessary.  The fruiting period is a critical irrigation time.  Water less frequently in late summer and fall to slow down the growing process so the canes can become hardened off for the winter.  Before the ground freezes in late fall, around the first of November, give them a good deep watering.  This will prevent damage to the roots in the winter.  Additional watering may be required during long dry spells in winter.

Pruning and Training

Proper pruning of raspberries makes picking easier and produces larger fruit.  Sometimes canes will not support themselves, so a horizontal trellis made of posts and wire will give good support.  Pruning techniques vary depending on the variety.  Fall bearing raspberries fruit on new growth.  They can be cut to the ground in fall or winter.  Summer bearing raspberries fruit on 2 year old canes.  In early spring, before new growth begins, remove any weak or damaged canes.  Thin the remaining canes to 6-8 inches apart and remove any winter killed tips.  After harvest, cut the fruit-bearing canes to the ground.  Loosely tie the new canes to support wires.  Everbearing raspberries bear fruit on the previous year’s canes in the summer and on the tips of first-year canes in the fall.  In the spring, before new growth begins, remove any weak or damaged canes.  Thin the remaining canes to 6-8 inches apart and snip off the old fruit cluster at the tips.  After harvesting the summer crop, remove the canes that bore fruit down to the ground.  Tie the remaining canes to the support wires. 

Varieties We Carry

Autumn Britten is a fall bearing raspberry which ripens 3 weeks before Heritage, bearing fruit from late summer through the fall.  Berries are long and conical with a bright red color and a very good flavor.  Good upright growth and quite vigorous.  This raspberry fruits on new growth so it can be pruned to the ground in the fall or spring.

Kiwigold is an everbearing variety, which will produce a crop in the spring on last year’s canes and a crop in the fall on the top foot or so of the current year’s canes.  This top portion of the cane can be cut off after harvest in the fall leaving the bottom portion of the cane to produce fruit the next spring.  The fruit is a beautiful yellow color, very sweet and juicy, firm, conical shaped and are borne in large clusters.  The fruit is excellent for fresh eating, canning and freezing.  This plant is tolerant of mildew.

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Growing GRAPES in Montana

Grape culture began at least 5000 years ago making them one of the world’s oldest cultivated fruits.  They are easy to grow on an arbor, fence or trellis and love a sunny spot.  Grapes are self-fertile and produce fruit on current season’s growth.  Grapes require both a relatively long, warm growing season to develop and mature a crop, and a cool winter to meet chilling and dormancy requirements.

Soil

Grapes prefer full sun and a deep, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, although they can tolerate a wider range of pH values.  If your soil is heavy clay, it may be necessary to build an 18” raised bed in order to have adequate drainage.

Moisture and Fertilizing

Irrigation is normally required into mid summer, but should not be continued much past mid summer in order to slow vine growth and allow the vines to acclimate for the winter.  Soil should be kept moist the first year after planting, but since grapes are deeper rooted than most small fruits, they will stand short dry periods in following years.  A spring application of a balanced fertilizer is recommended for established plants.  Don’t fertilize the first year after planting.

Planting

Bare root grapes should be planted in the spring.  Containerized grapes can be planted any time during the growing season.  Be sure to plant all grape plants at the same level they grew at the nursery and add mulch to reduce weeds and to help retain soil moisture.

Pruning and Training

Before planting grapes make sure that you have an adequate support system in place.  This can be as simple as a single sturdy post if your space is limited or a fence or arbor.  To make a living fence consider a post-and-wire trellis consisting of sturdy posts with wire strung between them with the top wire about 5 feet.  Grapes should be pruned during the dormant season, late November to March.  Late winter or early spring pruning is preferred.  If pruning is delayed until near bud swell, the cuts commonly ooze sap.  Though not desirable, “bleeding” is not harmful. 

-The first summer let the vine sprawl, developing as many leaves as possible to manufacture food for the roots.

-The first winter select the most vigorous cane and cut  it back to two or three buds.  Remove all other canes. 

-The second year should produce one main trunk from the two or three buds left at planting time.  Select the strongest vine for this purpose and tie at 12” intervals to a stake.  Pinch the growing tip when it reaches the point where you want the horizontal arms to be.

 -The third year should produce several lateral branches.  Choose four of the most vigorous ones that are spaced near the support wires.  Fewer or more may be utilized to meet individual requirements.  On these horizontal arms, trim the tips of the canes to leave two to four buds on each.  Tie these canes to their support.  Rub or prune off all other side shoots from the trunk or canes.  The buds you left on the canes during winter pruning will become fruiting canes the next growing season. 

-The fourth year should produce two or more canes extending in both directions at each wire.  Select a fruiting cane and where possible a renewal spur at each of the four arms.  All other growth is removed, including any sucker growth at the base of the trunk.  Shorten the selected canes leaving 6 to 10 buds.

-In the following years the pruning will be similar to the fourth.  From the renewal spurs, new fruiting canes can be selected.  The old arm with numerous fruiting canes can be cut near the trunk.

Types of training methods

Four-cane Kniffin system

Vines are trained on an ordinary two wire fence (as described earlier) with a main trunk and four horizontal arms.

Umbrella Kniffin system

This system produces high quality fruit because the fruit and foliage is held well up on the trellis for good sunlight exposure and air circulation.  Early training follows the procedure described previously, and the same two-wire fence is used.  Develop the trunk to a point near the top trellis wire, removing canes that arise near the lower wire or below.  In the next dormant season, select two canes which originate about midway between the two wires.  Remove all others.  The canes can be left 10-12 buds long.  The length should permit bending the cane over the top wire and then down and outward from the trunk to the lower wire.  Tie the cane snugly to the lower wire.  Each year thereafter, select three or four of the best canes, cut back two others near the trunk for renewal spurs and remove all others.  Bend each fruiting cane individually over the top wire and extend to the lower wire and tie firmly.  Cut off any portion of the cane that extends below the lower wire.

Cordon system

This system allows for excellent light and spray penetration, yields high-quality fruit, is easy to prune and pick, requires little or no tying and provides some frost protection with the high wire.  In this system the trunk and the cordons (arms) are permanent.  The plants are treated similarly to the four-arm Kniffen in years one through three.  However, in the third year, the canes you select will become the permanent cordons.  Pruning in years beyond the third year involves selecting spurs that will fruit next year, spaced 6-12” apart, shortening them and removing all others.

Fan system

This system is useful for training to walls and fences.  A plant pruned and trained to this system has several upright canes branching from arms on a very short trunk.  Select several main stems from the two or three buds left at planting time.  Tie at 12” intervals to trellis or fence in a fan shape.  Leave short renewal spurs (2 buds) at the base of these stems.  Rub off some of the buds on each cane to leave one every 4-5”.  These buds will produce the fruiting canes.  In the winter cut back the canes to the renewal spurs, which will produce the canes for the next season.

Arbors

Growing grapes on an arbor combines the benefits of fruit production, shade and ornamental effects.  Suitable arbors can be in an almost endless number of designs as long as they are sturdy.  Plants are placed on both sides of an arch-like structure and trained to grow up and over to about mid-point of the top.  Providing this amount of foliage cover requires a larger and taller plant than is necessary for an ordinary trellis.  Training the plants to a single trunk and leaving relatively short horizontal fruiting canes is a suitable method for most situations.  Develop a portion of the trunk each year by tying an uppermost vigorous cane in a vertical position.  At the same time, select fruiting canes at intervals of 2-3 feet.  These should be limited to five or six buds to favor development of the upper trunk and canes. 

Single-trunk vs. two-trunk

Commercial grape growers often will train two parallel trunks in the systems that have just been described.  Each trunk makes up for half the canopy.  Growers do this to reduce stress and winter damage; if one trunk is killed, production from that plant is not completely lost.  Two trunks also allows for renewing a trunk without losing production from the plant.

Varieties

Kay Grey is a fine hardy white grape of the highest quality, suited for table use and wine making.  Medium to large berries are produced in small clusters on very productive vines.  Matures in September.  This grape is hardy to zone 4 and needs to be mulched.

Valiant is an attractive blue grape.  The berries are round, up to 1/2” in diameter.  It is a very productive annual bearer, which matures early in the season.  This grape is free of astringency and the skin does not adhere to the flesh.  It is hardy to zone 3 and needs to be mulched.

Frontenac is a red wine grape.  It is extremely cold hardy, at least to –30°F and produces a very good quality juice for wine making.  A vigorous grower with good disease resistance to downy and powdery mildew.  High sugar levels, along with high acidity, are typical at harvest.  Malolactic fermentation is vital to lessen the wine’s acidity.  Wines have been described as being deeply colored, with a pleasing cherry aroma, and plum and berry often evident.  It is hardy to zone 4 and needs to be mulched.

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Growing RHUBARB in Montana

Fresh rhubarb sauce or pie is a delightful substitute for fresh fruit in late spring or early summer when other fruits are not yet in season.  Rhubarb is easy to grow and will stand considerable neglect and still be there the following spring.  The large heart-shaped leaves and red-tinted stalks of the rhubarb plant are very ornamental and are an interesting addition to the perennial garden

Growing vegetables in Montana is tough, unless you grow rhubarb.  This hardy perennial tolerates Montana’s cold winters and dry climate and is a good source of vitamin C and iron.

Caution! The leaves of the rhubarb plant, which contain oxalic acid, are not edible, either raw or cooked.  Poisoning has been reported from eating the leaf blades of this plant.  Eat only the stalks.

Soils

Rhubarb does best in slightly acid soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8, but it will tolerate the somewhat more alkaline Montana soils.  It will grow in almost any type of soil but is highly productive on fertile, well-drained soils high in organic matter.  Rhubarb prefers to be planted in a full sun location.  

Planting

Rhubarb plants are usually propagated by dividing the crowns in late fall or early spring.  Take care to leave as much root as possible with each eye or bud.  Plants from such crown divisions are preferred to plants raised from seed because they seldom equal the production or quality of the named rhubarb varieties.  To prepare the planting bed, dig holes two feet deep and two feet wide and space them three feet apart in all directions.  Fill the bottom of each hole with a six inch layer of compost or well rotted manure.  Mix top soil that was dug out of each hole with equal amounts of compost or manure and fill the hole with this mixture to a depth of one foot.  Place the root piece in each hole so that the top, where the plant buds are located, sits 3-4 inches below the soil surface.  Tamp the soil firmly around the roots and fill each hole with the soil mixture until level with the surrounding soil.  In the average garden, rhubarb is usually planted at one side of the garden where it will not be disturbed by the plow or incorporated into a perennial bed.  Irrigate freely when active top growth indicates that roots are growing.

Dividing Rhubarb Plants

It may be necessary to divide and reset your rhubarb plants about every four to six years to keep the bed in vigorous condition.  If not divided, plants may become too large and stalks may become thin and more numerous than desired.  Do this renewal work in the fall after the foliage has died or in the early spring before new shoots emerge. Dig the crowns and, using a sharp spade or shovel, cut the crown into sections between the large buds.  Crown pieces should be as large as possible leaving at least one bud on each crown section and 3-4 buds undisturbed in the old crown.  Protect new crowns from drying or freezing if they are not to be planted immediately.  Before replanting, discard crown pieces that are damaged or rotted.  Portions removed may be replanted to enlarge your rhubarb bed or make wonderful gifts for your gardening friends. 

Harvesting Rhubarb

Two or three rhubarb plants are usually adequate for the average family.  Permit plants to grow 2 full seasons before harvesting.  The plant uses food from the leaves to nourish the roots and enlarge the crown.  This will ensure a strong root system.  During the next spring you may harvest the leaf stalks for 4-5 weeks; older, huskier plants will take up to 8 weeks of pulling.  Harvest stalks by grasping near the base and pulling sideways and outward; cutting with a knife will leave stubs that will decay.  Stop harvesting when slender leaf stalks appear.  Never remove all of the leaves from a single plant, doing so may deplete the plant of sufficient nutrients to over-winter the roots.  Remove seed stalks when they appear, as they are not ornamental and they reduce the yield and vitality of the plant.

Fertilizing

Use no fertilizer in the planting year.  Beginning in the second year, side dress each plant with a half pound of a complete fertilizer such as 16-16-16 just as the petioles first appear.  Continue this practice each spring and fall when the leaves have died down but before the ground has frozen.  Adding a 2-4” mulch around the plants will keep the weeds under control and will help to retain moisture.

Pests and Diseases

Rhubarb is not usually seriously affected by insect pests or diseases.  There are a few, however, of which you should be aware.  “Red Leaf” is a bacterial root and crown rot.  Examination of the crown and root area often reveals a chocolate brown discoloration accompanied by root cavities.  The most visible symptom is the development of red leaves on infected plants.  This is transmitted from transplanting infected crowns.  New crowns must not be replanted in areas where the disease has previously been observed.  Insects may move the bacteria from infected to uninfected plants.  Therefore good insect management will reduce localized spread.  Several foliar diseases including powdery and downy mildew, gray mold, and various fungal leaf spots are known to occur on rhubarb.  However, due to Montana’s general dry climate they are of little importance.

Using Rhubarb

Rhubarb has a delicious. tart taste perfect for pies, preserves and sauces.  Combine with raspberries and strawberries for a delicious summer treat.  For year round enjoyment, rhubarb stalks can be washed, diced and frozen for winter use.  Pack raw or blanch for one minute in boiling water; cool in ice water, drain and pack unsweetened or use a syrup or sugar pack.

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Growing STRAWBERRIES in Montana

Strawberries are one of the easiest and most popular small fruits for the home gardener.   Why buy tasteless, commercially produced berries from the supermarket when you can enjoy sweet and flavorful strawberries in your own backyard!  The homeowner can grow strawberries in small places, like flower borders or even in attractive containers on your patio or balcony.

There are two main types of cultivated strawberries.  June-bearing strawberries produce a very heavy crop of large fruit in the spring.  This would be a good choice if you are growing berries for making preserves because you don’t need many plants, and once you’re done picking you can relax.  Ever-bearing strawberries will produce a steady crop of berries from spring through fall.  Overall yields are about the same or slightly less than June-bearing varieties.

Site

The best strawberries are produced in full sun.  Don’t plant any fruit in low-lying areas where frost pockets can form.  This is especially true with strawberries since the plants are low to the ground and bloom very early, making them especially subject to frost damage.

Soil

Strawberries need well-drained, rich, moist soil.  If your soil is heavy clay, you may need to plant strawberries in 8” raised planters to ensure good drainage.  Work some compost into the soil before planting.  Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 6.5 for best results, although they can be grown in soils with pH values near 7.5 with relatively few problems.  Strawberries are susceptible to Verticillium wilt and should not be grown in areas previously planted with potatoes, tomatoes or peppers.

Water and Fertilizer

Consistent watering is essential when plants are first set and during dry periods in spring and summer.  The soil should be kept moist but not water logged.  Too much water may predispose the plants to disease.  Irrigate in the morning to reduce rot.  Critical irrigation periods occur during harvest or in late August and fall.  Before planting, incorporate 2 pounds of a balances fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, per 100 square feet to the bed.  During the growing season, fertilize ever-bearers with small amounts of a balanced fertilizer as a top dress after harvest.  Be sure the foliage is dry at application and sweep fertilizer granules off the leaves to reduce the chances of burning the foliage.

Planting

Before planting, be sure to remove all weeds from the planting bed.  Weeds are a very serious threat to strawberries.  Plant strawberries in the spring to the same depth that they grew in the nursery.  At planting, set plants two feet apart in the row with their crowns at soil level.  Firm the soil about the plants and water them in.  If you can lift the plants with a quick jerk on a leaf, the soil is too loose, and the roots may dry out.

Matted row planting

The most popular form of planting in home gardens.  Set plants 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart.  Runners from initial planting are allowed to fill in to form a solid planting, until it reaches approximately one plant every 5 to 8 inches.  Remove excess plants or runners.  This method of planting produces the greatest number of fruits, but berry size is small.

Hill planting

This is a method of planting in which all runners are removed and the original plants maintained.  Space individual plants 15 to 18 inches apart, and place them in rows 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart.  Remove all runners.  The hill system provides the largest fruits but the smallest number of fruit.

Spaced row

This method is a compromise between the other systems and is probably the best suited to the home garden.  Remove all but four runners from each mother and arrange these so that they are evenly spaced about the mother plant.  Hold them in place with small stones or bobby pins.
With June-bearing varieties, remove all flowering stalks that develop during the first season as soon as they appear.  Letting new plants fruit before they have become established will permanently reduce their vigor and productivity.  Remove the first flower stalks to appear on everbearing cultivars.  These would produce the first crop of the season.  If plants become well-established and appear vigorous, let the plants produce the second fall crop in the first season.

Mulching

It is important to add a mulch around the roots of strawberries during the growing season.  Applying several inches of straw, bark or pine needles or laying a weed fabric around the strawberry plant helps retain moisture, keeps the fruit clean, and helps reduce weeds.  Before a hard freeze, add a mulch of pine needles or straw on top of the plants to protect them from drying winds and help prevent soil heaving.  Be sure to take the mulch off early in the spring, before new growth begins.

Harvesting

Harvest berries in the early morning if possible and place in the refrigerator immediately.  Do not wash the berries before refrigerating unless you will use the fruit within a few hours.  Picking berries when they are wet or cooling them with water hastens fruit rot.  With optimum conditions, fresh strawberries have a shelf life of about seven days.

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Growing ASPARAGUS in Montana

Asparagus is one of the most permanent and dependable of home garden vegetables.  Plants take 2-3 years to come into full production, but then furnish delicious spears every spring for many years.  The patience and care taken at planting time will be well worth the bountiful harvests of asparagus you will receive year after year.  Not only are they a delicious addition to your garden, asparagus are tall, feathery, graceful, and highly ornamental.  Use asparagus along a sunny fence or as a background for flowers or vegetables.

Planting

Asparagus can be grown on most any type of soil that is well drained.  They tolerate higher soil salinity than most other garden plants. 
Destroy all perennial weeds by mulching or cultivating.  To prepare the bed, dig a trench 14-16” deep and 12” wide.  Space trenches 4-6’ apart.  Mix the soil that is dug out of the trenches with equal parts of compost, peat moss or well-aged manure.  Put 4 inches of compost or well-aged manure mixed with garden soil into the bottom of the trench.  Apply a pound of bone meal for every 20 square feet.  The phosphorus in bone meal encourages the development of strong roots.  Toss about an inch of garden soil over the bone meal, and mix again.
Place the plants in the trench about 18” apart so the crown of a bare root plant or the soil level of a plant in a pot are 6” below the natural level of the soil.  Cover plants with about 1 inch of soil, firm gently around the plant and water well.  In about 2 weeks, shoots will appear.  When the shoots reach about 3” high, spread the reserved soil-compost mixture around the shoots in a 1-2 inch layer, taking care to leave the tips of the shoots showing.  Roots will sprout all along the shoots to create an extensive root system.  Repeat this procedure every week or so until the soil in the trench is level with existing soil.

Weed control

It is important to keep weeds and grass out of the planting bed to encourage vigorous growth and to eliminate competition for water and nutrients.  We recommend no herbicide be used in the home asparagus patch.  You can control some weeds early in the spring before spears come up by hoeing or by very shallow tilling.  Later, after the cutting season, hoe or cultivate again to destroy broadleaved weeds.  Keeping the beds well mulched will help to reduce weeds and help retain moisture in the soil.

Watering and Fertilizing

Established beds require little care.  Water asparagus plants regularly throughout the growing season.  A fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (such as 10-10-10 or 14-14-14) applied at a rate of 2 cups per 10’ of row can be mixed into the beds in late fall, early spring or after the harvest has ended for the season (about July 4).  The plants can also be fertilized annually by mixing a couple of inches of well-rotted manure or compost to the beds.

Harvesting

Asparagus beds reach full production after three years and peak production in about eight years, when the yield of spears can reach five pounds per 100 square feet.  A properly managed bed remains productive for 12 to 15 years.  Some over 30 years old are still fairly productive.  Don’t harvest shoots the first and second year.  Allow the spears to go to seed and let stand until spring, this will help to trap and hold snow, which will furnish protection to root crowns.  The following years’ cuttings may begin when the first shoots appear and continue for about 6 weeks, or no later than July 4.  Spears are ready to cut when they are 8-10 inches tall.  Cutting too soon reduces yield; cutting too late increases spear toughness.  To cut, push a knife into the soil and cut the shoot 1-2 inches below the soil surface being careful not to injure adjacent developing spears.  After you stop cutting the spears, let the tops of the remaining spears develop to produce leaves and seeds.  Food is manufactured in the leaves and then stored in the roots to produce shoots the following spring.

Mulching

Apply an insulating mulch of straw or similar material to the bed in late November and remove it in early spring when danger of severe cold has passed.  If not removed it will keep the ground cool and delay emergence of the spears. 

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Growing CURRANTS and GOOSEBERRIES in Montana

Flavorful, nutritious and attractive, currants and gooseberries have been prized for centuries by Europeans.  They are an excellent source of Vitamin C and have attractive yellow clusters of flowers in the spring followed by delicious fruit in late summer.  Currants and gooseberries are great for fresh eating, are delicious dried like raisins, and make wonderful jams, jellies and juice.

Both currants and gooseberries are attractive deciduous shrubs which may be used to attract birds and to make preserves, jellies and pies.  Three or four currant and gooseberry plants usually produce enough fruit for the average family.  A properly maintained planting should continue to produce for 10 or more years.

Soil

Currants and gooseberries survive on relatively infertile soils, but are better adapted to rich, well-drained, clay loam soils.  For vigorous plants and good fruit production they require at lease 18” of fertile well-drained soil with an ideal PH of 6.5.  If your soil is heavy clay, it may be necessary to build a raised bed to ensure adequate drainage.

Site and Planting

Currants and gooseberries  are self-fertile and hardy to zone 3.  They reach a height and spread of 4’ and should be spaced 3-5’ apart in a full sun to part shade area.  Bare root plants should be planted  in the spring.  Containerized plants can be planted any time of the year.  After planting, strip off all flowers and begin harvesting one year after planting.  Gooseberries and currants will develop larger fruit when there is good pollination and seed development.  Most cultivars are self-fertile, but, as with many other fruits, higher yields and larger fruit size are usually achieved with cross-pollination.  Therefore, it is generally desirable to plant more than one cultivar. 

Irrigation and Fertilizing

Currants and gooseberries require even soil moisture.  Use a mulch to help maintain the moisture.  They are heavy feeders, so a balanced fertilizer is needed.  Apply a balanced fertilizer like 14-14-14 at bud break every year in the spring.

CURRANTS

Currants are a striking sight when in fruit.  Large clusters of red, white or black berries cascade down the heavily laden branches.  These plants make a spectacular display in the garden and on your table.
Pruning

Black Currants bear fruit on 1 and 2 year old wood.  When planting, cut to ground all but 2 or 3 canes.  Head the remaining stems back to one bud.  Thereafter, every late winter or early spring remove all canes over 2 years old, and thin out the rest until you are left with 6 to 10 of the strongest canes.

Red and White Currants bear fruit on short spurs on older wood and at the base of 1 year old shoots.  Cut all but 2 or 3 of the strongest stems to the ground at planting.  For the next 2 years in late fall or early spring, cut out most of the youngest stems.  Starting in the fourth year, also cut out the 4 year old stems.  A mature plant should have some 1 year, 2 year, and 3 year old stems.

Harvesting

Currants may be picked singly or in clusters.

Varieties we Carry

Red Lake Currant is a vigorous, very productive shrub with clusters of attractive, large bright red berries.  Berries are tart with a pleasant mild flavor and can be eaten fresh or they make excellent preserves.

GOOSEBERRIES

While gooseberries are close cousins of currants, they have their own special character.  Larger and sweeter, gooseberries resemble grapes in size, shape and flavor and are considered better for fresh eating.  Most gooseberry plants are thorny, while currants are not.    Fruits may be pink, purple or green when ripe.

Pruning

After planting, thin all but the strongest shoots by cutting to the ground; leave no more than 6 stems.  On established plants, during dormant season, prune old, unproductive stems to the ground, usually those over 3 years old.  In summer trim side branches back to 3-5 leaves.  Thin stems as needed for easy picking.

Harvesting

Gooseberries are often stripped from the branches with a glove-covered hand if they are to be processed immediately.  Harvest more carefully to avoid puncturing the fruit on the thorns if the fruit is to be stored for any length of time.   Flats of gooseberry fruit should be stored in the shade since they sunburn easily.  Fruits are usually picked at the firm green stage, when they are too tart to eat fresh, and make into pies or preserves.

Varieties we Carry

Pixwell Gooseberries produce pale green, medium sized, sweet berries that turn pink when ripe.  This is a productive, hardy shrub with few thorns.  Long stems make easy picking.

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Choosing plants for WILDLIFE

When choosing plants for your landscape, you may want to take into consideration the wildlife that may visit your yard.  You can design your yard to either attract desirable wildlife, such as birds and butterflies, or you may want to choose plants that are not desired by animals like deer that can damage your plants.

“DEER PROOF” PLANTS??

There has been extensive research on deer resistant plants, but the results seem to be inconclusive.  What is termed deer resistant in one study is called deer food in another.  It is also stated that no matter how deer resistant a plant can be in one location, on a game trail that plant may be devoured.  When hungry, deer eat just about anything, but it is best not to tempt them with plants they find particularly attractive.  The research studies have found the following plants as non-preferred by deer.

Perennials

Ajuga, Artemesia, Aster, Astilbe, Baby's Breath, Basket of Gold, Bergenia , Bleeding Heart, Calla Lily, Candytuft, Catmint, Centaurea, Columbine, Coral Bells, Coreopsis, Creeping Jenny, Daffodil (Narcissus), Daylily, Delphinium, Dianthus, Echinacea, Fern, Forget-me-not, Foxglove, Gaillardia, Grass (Blue Fescue, Blue Oat, Feather Reed, Flame, Ribbon), Helenium, Geranium, Grape Hyacinth, Iris, Jacob's Ladder, Joe Pye Weed,
Kinnikinnick (Bearberry), Lamium, Lavender, Liatris, Lily, Lily of the Valley, Lupine, Lychnis, Lysimachia, Monarda, Oenothera, Painted Daisy, Penstemon, Peony, Phlox (creeping), Poppy (oriental), Queen of the Prairie, Rockcress, Rudbeckia, Russian Sage, Salvia, Scabiosa, Sedum, Shasta Daisy, Silver Mound (Sage), Sisyrinchium, Snow-in-the-Summer, Snow-on-the-Mountain , Soapwort, Spurge, Sunflower, Sweet Woodruff, Thrift, Thyme, Veronica, Vinca , Yarrow, Yucca

Shrubs

Barberry, Burning Bush, Butterfly Bush, Caragana, Caryopteris, Chokeberry, Cotoneaster, Currant, Dogwood, Elder, Gooseberry, Juniper, Lilac, Pine, Potentilla, Sage, Smokebush, Snowberry, Spirea, Spruce, Sumac (fragrant), Summersweet, Viburnum (Cranberry), Yew

Trees

Ash (White and Green), Birch, Box Elder, Ohio Buckeye, Fir, Hackberry, Hawthorn, Honeylocust, Maple, Oak, Pine , Russian Olive, Spruce

Vines

Clematis, Honeysuckle, Virginia Creeper

Other Deer Deterents

If you do have plants in your landscape that deer prefer, there are many ways to deter the deer and minimize the damage to your plants. 

Perhaps the best way to keep deer out of your garden or yard is to install a fence.  “Deer-D-Fence” is a product we recommend.  It is a lightweight, mesh fence that is easy to install and very strong.  Because of the mesh design, the fence is visually unobtrusive.  No matter what kind of fence you install, make sure it is at least 6 feet high. 

Deer can also cause considerable damage to tree trunks from rubbing their antlers on them.  You can deter deer from rubbing on trunks by installing a wire mesh tree guard.  Make sure it coveres the trunk from the ground to the first set of branches.  This is also very effective against damage caused by beavers and porcupine.  When you install the mesh, be sure it is loose on the trunk and check it periodically and loosen it as the tree grows. 

There are many spays on the market that can be effective in preventing damage caused by deer.  Some that we recommend are: Plantskydd, Deer Away and Hot Pepper Wax.  In order to achieve the best effect, spray new plants right after you plant them, before the deer can get a taste.  Be sure to spray the tender new growth and the spray may need to reapplied after a heavy rain.  You can also make your own spray:

Rotten Egg Spray
2 eggs            2 cups water
1-4 cloves garlic        2 Tbs. Tabasco
Puree garlic and water in blender.  Add eggs and Tabasco and process mixture thoroughly.  Allow to sit, covered, for several days.  Spray on plants and soil.

Pepper Spray
2 Tbs. Tabasco        1 gallon water
Wilt-Pruf (mixed as directed)
Mix all ingredients together and apply.

Many people also swear by other methods, including hanging bars of heavily perfumed soap, items of old sweaty clothing, or linen bags filled with human hair from the tips of tree branches.  This sometimes works for a week or so until the deer become accustomed to the scent.  Dried blood or blood meal sprinkled around the garden border also works for a few days until the deer get used to the smell, and must be reapplied after a heavy rain.  Remember that no plant is safe if the deer are hungry enough.

ATTRACTING BIRDS

Many people enjoy watching birds and list bird watching as one of their favorite activities. As people learn to enjoy the beauty of bird life around their homes, they may wish to improve their yards so that more birds will visit the property. Remember, birds can also play a key role in controlling insect populations. Birds are attracted to feeders, nest boxes, and birdbaths, and adding these handcrafted objects will certainly increase the number of birds visiting the property. Birds are also attracted to the vegetation on the property. Plants are important to birds because they provide good nesting sites, winter shelter, places to hide from predators, and natural food supplies that are available year-round. Planting a variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers is a great way to increase the number of bird species that will visit your backyard.  The following is a list of plants that will help attract birds to your yard:

Perennials

Columbine, Coralbell, Delphinium, Dianthus, Globe Thistle, Lupine, Lychnis, Monarda, Penstemon Garden Phlox, Poppy, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Veronica

Shrubs

Barberry, Buffaloberry, Burning Bush, Caragana, Chokeberry, Cotoneaster, Cranberry Bush, Currant, Dogwood, Elderberry, Gooseberry, Honeysuckle, Kinnikinick, Nanking Cherry, Raspberry, Russian Olive, Sandcherry, Serviceberry, Snowberry, Sumac, Viburnum

Trees

Ash, Birch, Bur Oak, Canada Red Cherry, Crabapple, Dogwood, Hackberry, Hawthorn, Lilac Tree, May Day Tree, Mountain Ash, Nannyberry, Plum, Russian Olive, Serviceberry, Winterberry (Euonymus)

Vines

Engelmen Ivy, Grape Vine, Virginia Creeper

ATTRACTING BUTTERFLIES

Gardening to create a place where butterflies will come and stay can be a very rewarding experience. The sensitive gardener will appreciate the butterfly not only for its beauty, but for the function it serves in pollination of plants in general, helping to preserve species, generation after generation. Keep in mind that before you have butterflies, you will have caterpillars in your garden. When we see caterpillars feeding on our plants we have to learn to tell ourselves, ‘this is a good thing’. A butterfly garden can be as simple as a container garden placed in just the right spot or as elaborate as a formal garden setting. One of the most important aspects of your garden is choosing the right plants. The following plants will help attract butterflies to your garden:

Perennials

Agastache, Aster, Bleeding Heart, Butterfly Flower, Candytuft, Catananche, Catmint, Cimicifuga, Columbine, Coral Bell, Coreopsis, Daisy, Daylily, Delphinium, Dianthus, Echinacea, Gaillardia, Geranium, Geum, Helianthus, Hyssop, Joe Pye Weed, Liatris, Ligularia, Lupine, Monarda, Penstemon, Phlox, Rockcress, Rudbeckia, Russian Sage, Salvia, Scabiosa, Sedum, Thrift, Yarrow

Shrubs

Butterfly Bush, Caryopteris, Chokeberry, Currant, Dogwood, Elderberry, Lilac, Mockorange, Potentilla, Serviceberry, Snowberry, Sumac, Vibrunum

Trees

Alder, Ash, Birch, Black Walnut, Box Elder, Bur Oak, Canada Red Cherry, Crabapple, Hawthorn, Linden, Nannyberry, Ohio Buckeye, Poplar

Vines

Honeysuckle

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Planning a PERENNIAL BED in your landscape

A well planned perennial bed will provide beauty, fragrance and flowers for cutting from spring until late autumn.  Planning a perennial garden can be a daunting task.  There are hundreds of varieties that will grow in our climate.  The ones we have listed here have been proven to thrive in our area with the proper care.  When planning your perennial bed you will want to decide what colors you like and when they bloom.  A well planned perennial garden can have color from April through October and even into winter.  Think not only of flowers when planning your bed, but be sure to include plants with interesting foliage which will add even more colors and textures.

Selecting Perennials by Color and Bloom period

RED FLOWERS                                                              BLOOM PERIOD
Astilbe ‘Vision in Red’                                                        June-July
Astrantia ‘Ruby Cloud’, ‘Ruby Wedding’                                 June-Aug
Centranthus coccineus                                                     June-Sept
Columbine 'Origami Red'                                                     May-June
Daylily, several varieties                                                    June-July
Dianthus 'Brilliant’, ‘Frosty Fire’                                           May-June
Echinacea ‘Twilight’                                                          June-Oct   
Gaillardia 'Burgundy',  ‘Arizona Sun’                                      June-Sept
Gaillardia ‘Frenzy’, ‘Tizzy’                                                   June-Sept
Helenium ‘Red Shades’, ‘Ruby Dwarf’                                    Aug-Sept
Hens & Chicks                                                                 Aug-Sept
Knautia                                                                          June-Sept
Lily Oriental 'Stargazer'                                                         July
Lychnis                                                                          May-Sept
Monarda 'Jacob Cline’, Raspberry Wine’                                 July-Aug
Painted Daisy ‘Robinson Red’                                               June-July
Pasque Flower 'Red Clock'                                                  Mar-April
Peony ‘Fern Leaf, ‘Francis Ortegot’                                      May-June
Phlox Creeping 'Red Wing'                                                   Apr-May
Phlox Garden ‘Volcano Red’                                                 July-Aug
Poppy ‘Beauty of Livermere’, ‘Turkenlouis’                             May-June
Sedum 'Dragon's Blood'                                                      June-Aug
Veronica 'Red Fox’                                                            June-Aug
Yarrow ‘Paprika’                                                               June-Sept

PURPLE FLOWERS                                                               BLOOM
Aster ‘Purple Dome’                                                           Sept-Oct
Aster ‘Farmington’                                                             July-Oct
Astrantia ‘Abbey Road’                                                       June-Aug
Catananche ‘Cupid’ Dart’                                                    July-Sept
Centaurea ‘Amethyst in Snow’                                             May-June
Daylily, many varieties                                                       July-Sept
Delphinium ‘King Arthur’                                                      June-Aug
Echinacea ‘Magnus Purple’                                                  July-Sept
False Indigo                                                                     April-May
Geranium ‘Rozanne’                                                            June-Oct
Geranium ‘Birch’s Double’                                                    June-Sept
Hostas, Many Varieties                                                      June-Aug
Iris, many varieties                                                           May-June
Lamium ‘Purple Dragon’                                                       July-Aug
Lewisia ‘Little Plum’                                                           May-Aug
Liatris ‘Kobold’                                                                  July-Sept
Limonium Sea Lavender                                                      May-July
Lupine                                                                            June-Aug
Nepeta                                                                           June-Aug
Pasque Flower                                                                  Mar-April
Phlox Garden ‘Volcano’                                                       July-Aug
Salvia ‘May Night’, ‘Caradona’                                              May-Oct
Spiderwort     ‘Concord Grape’, ‘Sweet Kate’                         June-Sept
Violet - Several varieties                                                   April-Aug

ORANGE FLOWERS                                                              BLOOM
Anise Hyssop ‘Sunset’                                                       July-Sept
Butterfly Flower                                                               June-Aug
Daylily 'Rocket City'                                                              July
Daylily ‘Tuscawilla Tigress’                                                 June-July
Echinacea ‘Big Sky Sunset & Sundown’                                 July-Oct
Echinacea ‘Meadowbright’                                                  July-Oct
Geum                                                                            May-June
Gaillardia ‘Oranges and Lemons’                                          June-Sept
Helenium ‘Mardi Gras’                                                        Aug-Sept
Lily 'Pixie & Tiger Orange'                                                      June
Poppy ‘Champagne Bubbles’                                               Apr-Sept
Poppy ‘Double Tangerine Gem’                                            May-Aug
Yarrow ‘Terra Cotta’                                                        June-Sept

BLUE FLOWERS                                                                 BLOOM
Ajuga                                                                            April-May
Amsonia Willow                                                               May-June
Anise Hyssop ‘Blue Fortune’                                               July-Sept
Aster ‘Woods Blue’                                                           Aug-Oct
Balloonflower                                                                  July-Sept
Brunnera                                                                       April-June
Campanula 'Pearl Deep Blue'                                              June-Sept
Centaurea ‘Mountain Bluet’                                                May-June
Clematis 'Bushy Blue Bell'                                                  June-July
Columbine 'Woodside Gold'                                                 May-June
Columbine 'Origami Blue'                                                    Jun-Aug
Daylily ‘Prairie Blue Eyes’                                                   June-July
Delphinium ‘Summer Blues’, ‘Summer Nights’                          June-Aug
Dragon’s Head ‘Fuji Blue’                                                   June-Aug
Eryngium ‘Sapphire Blue’ Sea Holly                                      June-Aug
False Indigo                                                                    Apr-May
Forget-me-not                                                                May-June
Iris ‘Variegated’, ‘Best Bet                                                 May-June
Jacob's Ladder                                                                 Apr-July
Lupine ‘Gallery Blue’                                                         June-Aug
Phlox Creeping ‘Emerald Blue’                                             May-June
Phlox Garden ‘Blue Paradise’                                               July-Aug
Russian Sage                                                                  July-Sept
Scabiosa ‘House Hybrid’                                                    June-Oct
Sysyrinchium ‘Lucern’                                                       May-July
Veronica –Several Varieties                                               May-July
Vinca                                                                            April-May

WHITE FLOWERS                                                               BLOOM
Anemone ‘Snowdrop’                                                        May-June
Aster ‘Snow Flurry’                                                           Sept-Oct
Bleeding Heart ‘White’                                                       April-May
Campanula ‘Pearl White’                                                   June-Sept
Candytuft                                                                      April-June
Cerastium                                                                      May-June
Cimicifuga ‘Hillside Black Beauty’                                         Aug-Sept
Coral Bells, many varieties                                                 May-July
Daisy                                                                             May-Oct
Delphinium ‘Summer Stars’                                                 June-Aug
Dragon’s Head ‘Fuji White’                                                 June-Aug
Echinacea ‘White Swan’                                                   June-Sept
Goatsbeard                                                                     July-Aug
Helleborus ‘Ivory Prince’                                                    Mar-May
Hostas, Many Varieties                                                     June-Aug
Iris ‘White Swirls’, ‘Butter and Sugar’                                   May-June
Joe Pye Weed ‘Chocolate’                                                 Aug-Sept
Lamium ‘White Nancy’                                                       July-Aug
Liatris ‘Floristan White’                                                     July-Sept
Lily Oriental ‘Casa Blanca’                                                     Aug
Penstemon ‘Husker Red’                                                    July-Aug
Peony ‘Duchess DeNemours’, ‘Elsa Sass’                              May-June
Phlox Garden ‘David’                                                         July-Aug
Rockcress ‘Variegated’, ‘Snowcap’                                     March-May
Sagina Irish Moss                                                            April-May
Salvia ‘Snow Hill’                                                             June-Aug
Sandwort                                                                      May-June
Saxifrage x geum                                                            June-July
Sedum ‘Frosty Morn’                                                        Aut-Sept
Snow on the Mountain                                                     June-July
Sweet Woodruff                                                             May-June
Thrift ‘Cottontail’                                                            April-July
Veronica ‘Icicle’                                                              July-Aug
Yucca                                                                              July

PINK FLOWERS                                                                 BLOOM
Anemone ‘September Charm’                                             Aug-Frost
Aster ‘Alpine Mix’, ‘Pinkie’                                                  May-June
Aster ‘Woods Pink’                                                           Aug-Oct
Astilbe                                                                          June-July
Astrantia ‘Ruby Wedding’                                                  June-Aug
Balloonflower ‘Shell Pink’                                                   July-Aug
Bergenia                                                                       April-May
Bleeding Heart , many varieties                                          May-Sept
Columbine ‘Oragami Pink’                                                   May-June
Coral Bells, many varieties                                                 May-July
Daylily, many varieties                                                         July
Delosperma ‘Starburst’                                                     June-Frost
Delosperma ‘Mesa Verde’                                                   May-Oct
Dianthus ‘Fire Witch’, ‘Tiny Rubies’                                      April-June
Dianthus ‘Frosty Fire’                                                        May-July
Echinacea ‘Summer Sky’                                                    June-Oct
Echinacea ‘Pixie Meadowbright’                                           July-Aug
Erigeron ‘Sea Breeze’                                                        July-Aug
Gas Plant                                                                       June-July
Geranium ‘Ballerina’, ‘Biokovo’                                             June-July
Geranium ‘Bloody’, ‘John Elsey’                                           June-Sept
Geranium ‘Katherine Adele’                                                    May
Iris ‘Heliorope Bouquet’                                                     May-June
Lamium ‘Pink Pewter’                                                        July-Aug
Lily, many varieties                                                             June
Lupine ‘Gallery Pink’                                                         June-Aug
Lychnis ‘Peggy’                                                               May-Aug
Monarda ‘Coral Reef’, ‘Petite Wonder’                                  July-Aug
Obedient Plant ‘Vivid’                                                       July-Sept
Painted Daisy ‘Robinson Pink’                                             June-July
Penstemon ‘Red Rocks’                                                     June-Aug
Peony ‘Sarah Bernhardt’                                                   May-June
Phlox Creeping ‘Candy Stripe’                                            May-June
Phlox Garden ‘Volcano Pink’                                               July-Sept
Poppy ‘Princess Victoria Louise’,                                        May-June
Rockcress ‘Compinkie’                                                     March-May
Salvia ‘Rose Wine’                                                           June-Aug
Sedum –Many Varieties                                                    June-Oct   
Soapwort                                                                      May-June
Thrift ‘Bloodstone’                                                           April-July
Thyme ‘Mauve’, Wooly, Highland Cream’                              June-Aug
Yarrow ‘Appleblossom’, ‘Summer Pastels’                             June-Sept

YELLOW FLOWERS                                                            BLOOM
Alyssum ‘Mountain Gold’                                                  April-June
Anise Hyssop ‘Coronado’                                                  July-Sept
Aurinia ‘Basket of Gold’                                                    April-May
Coreopsis, many varieties                                                June-Sept
Creeping Jenny                                                              June-July
Daisy ‘Broadway Lights’                                                    May-Oct
Daylily, many varieties                                                        July
Daylily 'Stella d' Oro'                                                       June-Sept
Gaillardia 'Fanfare', ‘Goblin’                                               June-Sept
Echinacea ‘Big Sky Sunrise’, ‘Harvest Moon’                         July-Oct
Helenium ‘Helen Gold’                                                      Aug-Sept
Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’                                                Aug-Sept
Heliopsis ‘Summer Sun’                                                   June-Sept
Ligularia                                                                       July-Aug
Lily ‘Bright Pixie’,  ‘Painted Pixie’, ‘Tiger’                                 June
Lysimachia ‘Alexander’, ‘Firecracker’                                  June-Aug
Oenothera                                                                   June-Aug
Rudbeckia 'Black-eyed Susan'                                          June-Sept
Sedum 'Kamschaticum', ’Golden Carpet’                             June-Sept
Spurge 'Cushion', ‘Purple’, ‘First Blush’                                Apr-May
Trollius ‘Golden Queen’, 'Lemon Queen’,                             May-June

 Perennials for Cut Flowers

Anemone, Aster, Astilbe, Astrantia, Balloon Flower, Bleeding Heart, Butterfly Flower (Asclepias), Campanula (Bellflower), Candytuft, Catanache (Cupid's Dart), Catmint, Centaurea, Cimicifuga (Bugbane), Columbine, Coral Bells, Coreopsis, Shasta Daisy, Delphinium, Dianthus, Echinacea (Coneflower), False Indigo, Gaillardia (Blanketflower), Gas Plant, Geum, Globe Thistle, Grasses, Helenium, Helianthus, Heliopsis, Hollyhock, Hyssop, Iris, Jacob's Ladder, Joe Pye Weed, Knautia, Lavender, Lady's Mantle, Leopard' Bane, Liatris, Ligularia, Lily, Lily-of-the-valley, Lobelia, Lupine, Lychnis, Monarda, Painted Daisy, Penstemon (Beardtongue), Peony, Garden Phlox, Poppy, Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susan), Russian Sage, Salvia, Scabiosa, Trollius, Veronica (Speedwell), Yarrow

Perennials with Fragrant Foliage

Anemone, Artemesia, Astilbe, Butterfly Flower (Asclepias), Centranthus, Coccineus, Cimicifuga (Bugbane), Creeping Jenny, Daisy, Daylily (some), Dianthus, Big Sky Series Echinacea, Gasplant, Hosta (some), Iris (some), Jacob's Ladder, Lavender, Lily, Lily-of-the-Valley, Monarda, Nepeta (Catmint), Oenothera, Peony, Garden Phlox, Poppy (some), Primrose, Queen of the Praire, Rockcress, Russian Sage, Salvia, Sweet Woodruff, Thyme, Viola

Perennials for Dried Flowers

Artemesia, Astilbe, Astranta, Catanache (Cupid's Dart), Delphinium, Gaillardia (Blanketflower), Globe Thistle, Grasses, Iris, Liatris, Peony, Poppy, Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susan), Russian Sage, Sea Holly, Veronica (Speedwell), Yarrow

Perennials with Interesting Foliage

Silver and Gray

Amsonia Willow, Anise Hyssop, Artemesia, Aurinia ‘Basket of Gold’, Centaurea , Cerastium, Coral Bells (several varieties), Dianthus (‘Fire Witch’, ‘Frosty Fire’), Erigeron ‘Sea Breeze’, Fern (‘Japanese Painted’, ‘Ghost’), Geranium ‘Sateene’, Jacob’s Ladder ‘San Juan Skies’, Lamium, Lychnis ‘Peggy’, Poppy ‘Double Tangerine Gem’, Russian Sage, Sea Holly ‘Sapphire Blue’, Thyme ‘Wooly’

Blue

Bleeding Heart ‘Candy Hearts’, Bleeding Heart ‘Ivory Hearts’, Eryngium ‘Sapphire Blue’, Grass (‘Blue Oat’, ‘Blue Fescue’, ‘Heavy Metal’, ‘Lyme’, ‘Prairie Sky’, ‘Bluestem’, ‘Windspiel Moor’), Helleborus ‘Ivory Prince’, Hosta (‘Blue Mamoth’, ‘Elegans’, ‘Hyacinthina’, ‘Krosa Regal’), Iris ‘Ruffled Velvet’, Spiderwort ‘Concord Grape’

Variegated

Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’, Coral Bells (several varieties), Geranium ‘Katherine Adele’, Grass (‘Avalanche’, ‘Variegated Moor’), Hosta (‘Cherry Berry’, ‘Francee’, ‘Frances Williams’, ‘Ginko Craig’, ‘Gold Standard’, ‘Golden Tiara’, ‘Guacamole’, ‘Patriot’, ‘Sagae’, ‘Wide Brim’), Iris ‘Variegated’, Jacob’s Ladder (‘Brise d’ Anjou’, ‘Stwy to Heaven’), Lamium, Lysimachia ‘Alexander’, Phlox ‘Harlequin’, Rockcress ‘Variegated’, Sedum (‘Frosty Morn’, ‘Tricolor’), Snow on the Mountain, Spurge (‘First Blush’, ‘Helena’s Blush’), Thyme ‘Highland Cream’, Vinca ‘Variegated’, Yucca ‘Golden Sword’

Red, Purple and Bronze

Ajuga ‘Chocolate Chip’, Cimicifuga ‘Hillside Black Beauty’, Coral Bells, several varieties, Fern ‘Burgundy Lace’, Grass ‘Shenandoah’, Hens & Chicks, Joe Pye Weed ‘Chocolate’, Ligularia, Lysimachia ‘Firecracker’, Penstemon ‘Husker Red’, Salvia ‘Burgundy Bliss’, Sedum (‘Dragon’s Blood’, ‘Matrona’, ‘Black Jack’), Spurge ‘Purple’, Thrift ‘Rubrifolia’

Yellow

Campanula ‘Dickson’s Gold’, Columbine ‘Woodside Gold’, Creeping Jenny ‘Golden’, Hosta (‘Golden Prayers’, ‘Sum and Substance’), Sedum ‘Angelina’, Spiderwort ‘Sweet Kate’

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Planting the RIGHT PLANT in the RIGHT PLACE

In order for plants to thrive in your landscape, it is important to plant the right plant in the right place. When planting trees, shrubs and perennials, you must take into account the growing conditions of your site, such as, sun exposure, soil pH, water availability, soil type and available space. Of key importance, is that the mature size of the plant you choose fits the available space. The plant information below and understanding your site conditions will aid in choosing the right plants that will thrive in your landscape. 

Drought Tolerant Plants

The following plants will do well when water supplies are short, or in areas that are hot or difficult to water. An establishment period of at least one year is required befor most plants are truly drought tolerant.

Perennials

Agastache (Hyssop), Ajuga, Amsonia Willow, Anthemis, Artemisia (Sage), Baby’s Breath, Basket of Gold, Butterfly Flower, Candytuft, Catananche, Centaurea, Columbine, Coneflower, Coreopsis, Shasta Daisy, Daylily, Delosperma, Dianthus, Echinacea, Erigeron, False Indigo, Flax, Gaillardia, Gas Plant, Geranium, Geum, Grass (Big Bluestem, Blue Fescue, Blue Oat, Feather Reed, Flame, Little Bluestem, Ribbon, Switch), Helenium, Heliopsis, Hen & Chicks, Hollyhock, Hyssop, Iris, Jovibarba, Lamium, Lewisia, Liatris, Limonium, Sea Lavender, Lupine, Lychnis, Monarda, Nepeta, Oenothera, Penstemon, Peony, Phlox (Creeping), Poppy, Rockcress, Rudbeckia, Russian Sage, Salvia, Sandwort, Sedum, Snow-in-Summer, Snow on the Mountain, Soapwort, Spiderwort, Spurge, Stachys, Thrift, Thyme, Veronica, Yarrow, Yucca

Shrubs

Barberry, Buffaloberry, Burning Bush, Bush Honeysuckle, Caragana, Caryopteris, Cherry (Nanking), Chokeberry, Chokecherry, Cotoneaster, Genista, Gooseberry, Honeysuckle, Juniper, Lilac, Ninebark, Pine, Potentilla, Rose (Rugosa), Russian Olive, Sandcherry, Serviceberry, Smokebush, Snowberry, Spirea (Ash Leaf, Renaissance), Globe Blue Spruce, Sumac, Viburnum

Trees

Ash, Prairie Horizon Alder, Aspen, Ohio Buckeye, Canada Red Cherry, Crabapple, Elm, Hackberry, Hawthorn, Honeylocust, Japanese Tree Lilac, Linden, Maple (Autumn Blaze, Box Elder, Silver, Tatarian), Nannyberry, Bur Oak, Pear, Pine, Poplar, Russian Olive, Serviceberry, Spruce, Black Walnut, Winterberry, Euonymus

Vines

Virginia Creeper, Engalman Ivy

Shade Tolerant Plants

Shade tolerant plants listed here do well in situations where they get filtered sunlight through a foliage canopy or if they get less than 6 hours of sunlight each day.  Plants with an * do well in heavier shade.

Perennials

*Ajuga, Anemome, *Astilbe, Bergenia, *Bleeding Heart, *Brunnera, Campanula, Catmint, *Cimicifuga, Columbine, Coral Bell, *Creeping Jenny, Daisy, Daylily, *Deadnettle, False Indigo, *Ferns, Foam Flower (Tiarella), Forget-me-not, Geranium, Geum, Goatsbeard, Grass (Feather Reed, Moor, Tufted Hair), *Helleborus , *Hosta, Iris, Jacob’s Ladder, *Joe Pye Weed, *Lady’s Mantle, *Lamium, Leopard’s Bane, Lewisia, *Ligularia, Lily, *Lily-of-the-Valley, Lobelia, Lupine, Lychnis, Lysimachia, Meadow Rue, Monarda, Penstemon, Pasque Flower, Garden Phlox, Primrose, *Queen-of-the-Prairie, Rockcress, Rudbeckia, Irish Moss Sagina, Sandwort, *Snow-on-the-Mountain, Spiderwort, Spurge, *Sweet Woodruff, Thyme, *Trollius, Veronica, *Vinca, *Viola, Yarrow

Shrubs

*Arborvitae, Barberry, Burning Bush, Chokeberry, Cotoneaster, *Cranberry, *Alpine Currant, *Dogwood, Elderberry, *Dwarf Balsam Fir, Honeysuckle, *Hydrangea, Junipers, Mockorange, Ninebark, Serviceberry, *Spirea (Ash Leaf, Little Princess), Snowberry, *Sumac, *Viburnum, *Yew

Trees

*Dogwood, Gray & Pagoda, *Maple, Korean, *Nannyberry

Vines

Clematis, *Honeysuckle, *Virginia Creeper

Plants Tolerant of Wet Soils

Low-lying, wet areas or areas by a pond are often the most frustrating parts of a landscape.  The following plants will do well in moist situations.

Perennials

Astilbe, Bergenia, Brunnera, Campanula, Candytuft, Chelone, Cimifuga, Columbine, Coreopsis (Rose), Cranesbill, Geranium, Creeping Jenny, Daylily, False Indigo, Ferns, Filipendula, Forget-me-not, Goatsbeard, Grass (Moor, Feather Reed, Ribbon, Tufted Hair, Unicorn Rush), Helenium, Hosta, Iris, Jacob’s Ladder, Lady’s Mantle, Liatris , Ligularia, Lily-of-the-Valley, Lobelia, Lysimachia, Meadow Rue, Thalictrum, Monarda, Obedient Plant, Primrose, Queen-of-the-Prairie, Rodgersia, Sisyrinchium, Snow-on-the-Mountain, Spiderwort, Spurge, Sweet Woodruff, Tiarella, Trollius

Shrubs

Arborvitae, Chokeberry, Dogwood, Elder, Snowberry, Viburnum, Willow

Trees

Alder, Ash, Birch, Gray Dogwood, Elm, American Linden, Autumn Blaze Maple, Sienna Glen Maple, Box Elder Maple, Silver Maple, Nannyberry, Swamp White Oak, Poplar, Willow

Plants for Alkaline Soil

Most soils in the Great Falls area are alkaline. This creates many problems for plants including lack of nutrient availability. Most plants that we carry tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but listed below are plants that do well in higher then usual alkalinity. 

Perennials

Artemesia (sage), Baby’s Breath, Bergenia, Brunnera, Campanula, Columbine, Coral Bells, Cupid’s Dart, Daisy, Delphinium, Dianthus, Geranium, Goat’s Beard, Helenium, Hens and Chicks, Iris, Lady’s Mantle, Lamium, Leopard’s Bane, Lupine, Pasque Flower, Lupine, Phlox, Poppy, Russian Sage, Salvia, Saxifrage, Scabiosa, Sedum, Soapwort, Statice, Thyme, Veronica, Yarrow, Yucca

Shrubs

Barberry, Caragana, Juniper, Lilac, Mockorange, Potentilla, Viburnum

Trees

Green Ash, Crabapple, Hackberry, Kentucky Coffee Tree, Maple, Box Elder, Poplar, Russian Olive

Vines

Clematis, Hops, Honeysuckle

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PLANTING and CARE of nursery stock

General Planting Instructions

1. If you are not planting immediately, water plants thoroughly and keep them out of the wind and hot sun.

2. Handle plants gently.  Always lift and carry by pot or root ball.

3. Dig holes at least twice as wide as the container or root ball.  Roots need to spread outward, much more so than downward, so do not plant too deeply.  Plants should be set slightly higher than grown in the nursery.  With heavy clay soils or other poor drainage conditions, install plants 2-3” above surrounding grade and slope soil away from center of plant.

4. For trees, it is generally best to use the same soil you remove to backfill your planting hole.  However, if soil is heavy clay, add EKO Compost to your backfill.  Blend 1 part compost to 2 or 3 parts soil, depending on how heavy the soil is.

5. Because the quality of our soil is generally very poor in this area, it is highly recommended that you add compost to all new shrub and, especially, perennial beds.  Spread a layer of 2-4” of EKO Compost over the entire bed and work it into the top 6-8” of soil.

6. Using extra soil from hole, build a shallow basin to water into so water soaks down to the root zone and does not run off.  (Build this basin above grade.  Do not make a depression below grade that may collect too much water and drown the plant.)

Specific Planting Instructions

At Forde Nursery, our plants are available in four different root types:

BARE ROOT (BR)

It is critical that you keep the roots of BR plants moist at all times.  If not able to plant immediately, store the package in a shady, cool spot, protected from the wind (preferably indoors).  If possible, soak roots in water overnight before planting.  Don’t soak longer than 24 hours.  When planting, be sure to spread roots out carefully in the hole and work soil gently in around the roots so as not to leave any air pockets.  Prune any broken roots.

CONTAINER GROWN (CG)

Stock has been grown in the pot for at least one growing season.  Consequently, the soil medium in the container is well bound by the root system.  To remove CG plants from their pot, tap on sides of pot with hands to break surface tension between soil and sides of pot, then slide pot gently off of root ball.  If roots were circling inside pot, gently loosen with hands.

POTTED

Stock is plant material that has been grown in the container for less than one year.  We take top quality bare root plants and pot them in the spring.  It takes several weeks to several months for the root system to solidly bind the soil medium.  It is very important, when removing potted stock from the container, that the root ball remains firmly intact.

BALLED & BURLAPPED (B&B)

Stock is plant material dug with a ball of soil around the roots which is then wrapped in burlap and bound with wire and/or twine.  The root systems are essentially intact, but it is very important to handle these plants gently so as not to break up the balls.  Do not try to remove the burlap from the entire ball.  To plant B&B stock:

-Gently set ball in hole - handle by root ball.

-Situate tree how you want it; backfill 1/2 of the way up the ball; firm soil gently with hands.

-Cut twine from around trunk and cut away top 1/2 of burlap (any wire can either be pushed down into hole or cut off the top 1/3 of ball).

-Backfill the rest of the way, water, mulch, etc.

WATERING

• It is crucial that all plants are watered thoroughly at the time of planting.  Water slowly to allow water to penetrate deeply and soak the entire root zone.

• With our hot, dry, windy summers, we must not neglect new plantings.  The frequency of watering, however, depends greatly upon soil type and current weather conditions.  Keep in mind the following:

-In sandy, well-drained soil, water deeply every 3 days until your plants are established (about 30 days) and every 5-7 days after that.

-Plants in heavier soil will require water less often.  Your plants will needs a deep soaking about every 5 days until established (about 30 days) and every 7-10 days thereafter.

-Under hot and/or windy conditions, plants will require water more often.  In cooler or rainy weather, water less often.

• Certain plants, until established, will require more water than others.  Some that need more water than normal are:  hydrangea, birch, potentilla, arborvitae (cedar), roses, aspen, spirea, dogwood, and many perennials and other plants in smaller pots.

• Do not over water, that is, water too often.  Plants must breathe, as well as drink, and saturated soils do not contain enough oxygen.  Keep in mind, “you can’t water your plants too much at one time, but you can water too often”.  So make sure your plants aren’t constantly flooded.

• It is very important to water all plants heavily in the fall - about the 1st of November - before the ground freezes.  This is especially true of evergreens or anything planted in late summer or fall.

• When watering plants located on a hillside, remember to water slowly and deeply.  If you are not careful, water will run off before it has a chance to soak in.

• If you will not be planting your new plants right away, avoid leaving plants in hot windy areas and water daily.

MULCHING

Placing a 2-3” layer of wood, bark or decorative rock on the soil surface around your new plantings will reduce plant stress and the amount of watering required.  With decorative rock, we highly recommend using a layer of Typar weed control fabric underneath.

STAKING

With the exception of smaller trees or ones planted in protected areas, we recommend staking all trees for the first year.  Use 2 or 3 Tree Slings around the lower trunk attached with wire to vertical stakes of wood or steel.  Do not use wire through a section of garden hose around the trunk.  Do not stake too tightly -allow the tree to sway slightly in the wind.  Do not leave stakes on for more than one year.

PRUNING

Forde Nursery will do any pruning your new plants require before you take them home with you.  Because pruning needs vary widely from plant to plant, we suggest contacting us with any specific questions you may have about your established plantings.  Tip:  Dead-heading (removing spent blossoms) will not only make your plants look better, it will encourage longer or better blooming in lilacs, roses, potentillas, perennials and many other plants.

FERTILIZING

The first year we recommend using a water soluble fertilizer.  Slow release fertilizers can be used for younger established plants or in the fall for new plants.  Check with our staff for more specific recommendations for your individual plants.

INSECTS AND DISEASES

• Examine your plants at regular intervals to determine whether or not any insect or disease problem is present.  Treatment is most effective if begun early, so at the first sign of problems, contact us.  With proper instructions, you can control most of these problems yourself.

• Many insect and disease problems can be reduced or prevented with the application of safe and effective Dormant Oils in the early spring.

• Forde Nursery can provide you with the necessary fertilizers and insecticides, plus pruning and staking materials for the care of your plants.

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SOIL IMPROVEMENT for Beautiful Plants

Soil isn’t just the ground beneath your feet; it is a living community of microorganisms, nutrients, minerals, water and oxygen.  By creating good, nutritious soil in your beds, you will be able to grow healthy, vigorous plants so your landscape will look it’s best.

Knowing your soil type… 

• Clay soils have the smallest particles that hold together in a tight mass.  If your soil sticks to your shovel when wet, or if it becomes rock hard and refuses to absorb water when dry, you’ve got mostly clay soil.  Clay can be very fertile but it has poor drainage and is hard for roots to penetrate. 
  

• Sandy soils have the largest particles that barely hold together at all.  If water endlessly disappears into your soil, or if it is very easy to dig when wet or dry, you’ve got mostly sandy soil.  Sand tends to be of low fertility, and offers little resistance to spreading roots.  Most soils are a mixture of particles with the dominant size being its type. 
  

• Loam is a general word for near-perfect soil that has lots of organic matter, enough sand to be easy to dig in, but sufficient clay to provide fertility and solid anchorage for plants.
  

Knowing your soil pH…

• Each plant species is adapted to specific acidic, neutral, or alkaline soil conditions.  When ailing plants fail to respond to fertilizer applications, usually this important acid-alkaline relationship (soil pH) is out of balance.  The pH scale runs from 0 to 14.  Seven is neutral, values below 7 are acid, and those above 7 are alkaline.  Many plant nutrients are not available when the pH is too alkaline or too acidic, therefore it is best to have a pH around 7.  Most of the soils in the Great Falls area are alkaline.  A soil test should be done to determine the exact pH of your soil. 

-To make soils more acidic add sulfur or gypsum (see product information).

-To make soils less acidic add lime, however acidic soils are extremely rare in our area and lime probably would not ever be needed.

• In some extreme cases, the soil may be so alkaline that you may need to plant in raised beds with soil that is brought in from another area.

Creating fertile soils…

Most soils in the Great Falls area are not naturally fertile, but they can be improved to make plants perform well.  Fertile soils, which are dark in color because they contain a lot of organic matter, help to create healthy plants which are far more resistant to pests and disease.  When fully decomposed, organic matter becomes humus, which is a form that plants can use.  Examples of humus are compost and peat moss.  By adding humus to your soils, you will be rewarded with faster growing and more beautiful plants and flowers.  You can add humus to soils any time you wish, just remember that it doesn’t last forever, so plan on adding humus yearly.

EKO Compost

EKO Compost is produced in Missoula, Montana and is made from green and brown wood products (leaves, limbs, lawn clippings, wood chips, Christmas trees) and biosolids.   Every batch of EKO compost is rigorously tested to ensure that it meets and exceeds all process and product standards. 

Benefits of adding EKO Compost to your soils:

-Improves soil structure by lightening heavy clay soils, increasing its drainage.  It acts as a sponge in sandy soils, allowing greater water-holding capacity.  It improves the tilth, or work ability, of most soil. 

-Improves soil’s water holding capacity and reduces soil erosion.

-Improves nutrient availability and provides both macro and micronutrients that are slow-released.  In many cases, a compost addition yearly can eliminate the need for fertilizers. 

-Neutralizes and buffers soil pH, thus lowering the pH of alkaline soils and increasing the pH of acid soils.  This is important since many plant nutrients are not available when the pH is too high or too low. 
Is shown to help suppress soil-born diseases.

-Improves soil biological activity by stimulating most of the fungi, bacteria, and arthropods the soil needs to do its many jobs.  In depleted soils, compost can slowly introduce a full complement of active, beneficial soil microbes.

-Reduces transplant shock. Plant survival is often improved with the addition of finished compost at planting.  This is particularly true in lower fertility, lighter, droughty soils. 

Recommended applications of EKO Compost:

-When planting trees and shrubs, mix it with the excavated soil as you pack it around the root ball.
Improve the soil over an entire planting area by spading or rototilling 2-4” of compost in 6” to 12” deep, depending on your soil type.

-Cultivate it into the surface of the soil around older plants that can use a fertility boost.

-Improve your existing lawn by core aerating, and adding compost about 1/2 inch deep.  Drag with a screen or rake and water heavily.  This can be done annually in the spring or fall or as needed.

-To establish a lawn add 1-2” of compost and till in.  Then seed or sod.  A dusting of compost as a final cover over seeded lawns helps retain moisture and eliminates the need for straw mulch.  Keep moist.

-Use as a mulch to suppress weeds, increase moisture retention and add nutrients.  Application depth should be 2-3 inches.

Sunshine Peat Moss
Peat moss is partially decomposed sphagnum moss. Its large cell structure enables it to absorb air and water like a sponge. Although peat moss does not contain nutrients, it adsorbs nutrients added to or present in the soil releasing them over time, as the plants require.

Benefits of adding Peat Moss to your soils:

-It has a reliable pH (3.4 to 4.8), which helps to acidify your soil.

-It retains up to 20 times its weight in moisture, and releases water slowly as plants need it.

-It allows proper root growth by loosening and aerating heavy, clay soils and helps to bind sandy soil, retaining moisture and nutrients.

-It reduces leaching of nutrients in or added to the soil, releasing them over time. This saves on fertilizer.

-It protects soil from hardening and adds organic material to your soil.

-Peat moss decomposes slowly over several years compared to compost, which typically decomposes within one year.

-It is environmentally friendly and free of insects, weeds, seeds, salts and chemicals, and represents good value (bale compression means you get approximately two bales in one!).

Recommended applications of Peat Moss:

-For new beds, dig or till two inches of peat moss into the top six or eight inches of soil.  We recommend that you also add compost for nutrients.

-Hand dig peat moss into existing flower or vegetable beds. Be careful not to disturb plant roots. Dig one-inch of peat moss into the top six inches of soil to condition the area for existing plants or new transplants.

-Add peat moss to existing lawns by "top dressing" (adding a thin layer of peat moss) to the top of the lawn, gradually conditioning the soil. If you wish, supplement peat moss with an equal portion of well-shifted compost, which adds nutrients.

-To really improve existing lawns, core aerate the lawn, and then apply a top dressing of peat moss (¼ to ½ inch).  Aeration removes plugs of soil from the lawn, loosening compacted areas and promoting deeper grass root growth. The best time of year to aerate is mid-spring (after the ground is reasonably dry) and early fall.

-For seeding a new lawn, dig or rototill two inches of peat moss into the top six inches of soil.  Spread your seed, water and top dress with a ¼ to ½ inch layer of peat moss.  Water lightly and keep moist. 

Correcting pH, sodium and drainage problems…

Most soils in the Great Falls area are heavy clay and alkaline.  This creates many problems for plants, such as poor drainage and lack of nutrient availability.  Saline soils are also a problem in many soils around Great Falls, especially the Sun Prairie area.  Some plants are adapted to these conditions and grow just fine, but most ornamental plants will benefit by adding some of the products listed below.

Reveille Gypsum Pellets

-Gypsum is a great product to use on clay soils with high pH (alkaline) and high sodium (salt).   Gypsum should be applied every year to maintain its benefits.

-Benefits of adding Gypsum to your soil:

-Corrects sodium-alkaline soils, lowering the pH and reducing the salt content.

-Helps improve soil structure allowing air and water to penetrate soil.

-Supplies the essential nutrients of Calcium & Sulfur.

-Encourages root growth.

-Repairs lawn damage from salt & animal burns.

-Improves plant growth, vigor and productivity.

Recommended applications of Gypsum:

-On established lawns, spread 40-50 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. annually in the spring and the fall to maintain soil condition.  Water thoroughly. 

-On new lawns, incorporate in top 2” of soil.  Apply 80-100 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. prior to seeding or sodding.  Water thoroughly. 

-On planting beds, incorporate 20-40 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. prior to planting.

-For trees, shrubs and flowers, incorporate 1-2 cups around the plant base.  Water thoroughly.  Increase application rates around larger trees and shrubs.

-For winter road salt damage, apply in the fall to prevent, apply in the spring to correct.  Spread 20-40 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. and water thoroughly.  For animal burn spots, apply 1-2 cups per sq. ft.

-The previous rates can be increased on clay soils.

S-sul Ammonium Sulfate

S-sul is used to lower soil pH (making it more acidic).  It also contains 21% quick release nitrogen.  Incorporate into new beds or sprinkle around existing plants and water well.  The rate below outlines the amount needed to lower soil pH to 6.5 within the top 6 inches.

Original pH   Sandy soils      Loamy soils      Clay soils
                      Pounds per 100 square feet
7.5               1.0 to 1.5         1.5 to 2.0       1.0 to 2.5
8.0               2.5 to 3.0         3.0 to 4.0       4.0 to 5.0
8.5               4.0 to 5.0         5.0 to 6.0       6.0 to 7.5
9.0               5.0 to 7.5               -                   -

Ironite
If you have clay soil and your lawn and plants are turning chlorotic (yellow), you may need to add iron.  Most soils in the Great Falls area are clay, which makes the iron in the soil unavailable to plants.  Adding Ironite to your soil will give your plants the iron that they need and will keep them green.  Ironite is safe to use on all plants and will not burn them.
Benefits of adding Ironite to your soil:

-Develops stronger, deeper root systems to help plants fight against diseases and insect infestation.

-Quickly greens up your lawn and plants.

Recommended uses:

-On established lawns, spread 5 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft.  Cover evenly when grass is dry then water.
On newly seeded lawns, cover seeds with clean topsoil first, then apply same amount as above and keep soil well moistened.  Can be used with other lawn fertilizers.

-For shrubs, flowers & vegetables, use 5 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. of planting area and work into soil.

-For trees, spread evenly under the tree canopy at the rate of 5 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. of planting area.  Work into soil and water thoroughly.

Mycorrhiza
Mycorrhiza are tiny beneficial fungi that attach themselves to and penetrate the roots of plants and effectively become extensions of the root system.  They produce soil compounds, which stimulate the plant to produce additional roots on which the fungus can grow.  The roots in turn secrete a substance, which stimulates the growth of the fungus.  Natural areas with organic matter generally contain an array of mycorrhizal fungal species.  But when soils are disturbed during construction and mycorrhiza are killed or the soil has little organic matter in it to begin with, mycorrhiza can be reestablished to the site by inoculating the plants.  We carry two products that contain mycorrhiza:

-M-roots™ is a special blend of natural nutrients formulated for newly planted conifer and deciduous trees and shrubs, turf, flowerbeds, and gardens. It contains organic composts, humus extracts, sea kelp extracts, ferrous sulfate, potassium sulfate, and mycorrhiza spores.

-Endo-ROOTS™ contains eight species of endomycorrhiza and is effective on turf grass, flowers, and many deciduous trees and ornamentals.  It is derived from composted poultry manure, ferrous sulfate, potassium sulfate, kelp meal, humus, vitamins, amino-acids, and endomycorrhiza spores.

-See packages for application rates.

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Using GYPSUM to Improve Soils

Gypsum additions are good for improving clay and alkali type soils.  Clay soils often contain high magnesium levels and little organic matter.  This condition tends to make the soil particles so tight that air and water cannot penetrate it.  Alkali soils have high sodium levels which prevent plant, crop, or turf production.  By the proper use of gypsum, these soils can be returned to productivity.

By adding gypsum to soils, an ion exchange results which dramatically improves soil friability and tilth.  Once active, gypsum will greatly improve water and air penetration, promote root growth and improve plant vigor, where it was previously limited.  It will loosen up and improve soil structure and workability of clay, gumbo, and compacted soils.  It may reduce the pH of the soil or may tend to acidify the soil.  It will not cure saline seepage.

Gypsum will not become fully effective in reducing alkalinity and improving the physical condition of the soil in only one year, but requires about three years after application to become fully effective.

Gypsum is a mined product, which is a form of hydrated calcium sulfate.  There are vast natural deposits of it in Montana, including Carbon and Stillwater counties.

Other materials which will have the same effect are iron sulfate, aluminum sulfate and any form of elemental sulfur (rock, powder, flakes).  Use about one ounce of these materials per square yard (three feet by three feet).

Gypsum may be applied anytime of the year, when the soil is workable.

Application Rates for Gypsum

Heavy Clay Soils

-20 to 30 pounds per 100 square feet.
-May be applied every four years till desired results are achieved.

Lighter Clay Soils

-20 to 30 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
-May be applied every other year till desired results are achieved.

-These previous rates may be applied to established lawn areas.  After application, irrigate for one hour.  Water regularly afterwards to continue the movement of gypsum into the soil.

Salt and Alkaline Areas

-30 to 40 pounds per 100 square feet.
-After application, flood area about four times before planting.  May be applied every four years till desired results are achieved.

Shrubs

-2 pounds around each shrub, then water in.
-May be done annually.

Roses

-1 pound mixed with rotted manure.
-May be put around roses up to four times a year

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The VALUE of Landscaping

Whether you are building a new home or remodeling an older home, landscaping is essential. 

The process needs to start well before plans are printed, budgets are suggested, or dirt is turned.  Landscaping is more than just plunking down a few shrubs, throwing in some sod, and calling it good.  Early on, you should start to envision what the final product will look like; this is the best time to get a landscape professional on board.  Just like any other craft, landscape professionals are specialists who can give you the “curb appeal” you desire.  And, Realty Industry Studies show that 50% of home purchase decisions are made during the first 60 seconds the buyer views the property.

Unfortunately, too often landscaping has become an after thought; grading is done, all the soil is removed, driveways and walkways are poured, the house is in and money is scarce.  This scenario almost guarantees that the “curb appeal’ will fall short of its full potential. 

The better scenario would be to add a landscape professional to the team right from the beginning.  Issues like grade, site layout, view considerations, water and energy conservation, screening, maintenance and existing landscape preservation, are just some of the areas where the landscape professional can help you optimize the value of the home.

When contemplating landscaping, consider these studies:

Smart Money Magazine, May 2003 – “one of your greatest assets may be in your own backyard – literally.”

This Old House Magazine, April 2003 – “As an investment, landscaping can increase the value of your property by as much as 20% - if done well.”

Money Magazine, February 2000 –  “A nicely landscaped property can increase the value of your home by 15%, allowing owners to recoup 100-200% of their investment at selling time.  This compares with the investment recovery rates for kitchen remodeling (75-80%), bathroom remodeling (20-120%), and swimming pool additions (20-50%).”

A Michigan State University Study, February 2005 – concluded that, “a good landscape adds 6 to 11% to the perceived value of a home”, and that “The landscape attributes that contributed the most to the increase in perceived home value were, in order, design sophistication, plant size, and plant material type.”

The Wall Street Journal reported that landscape investments are recovered fully, and sometimes doubled, via increasing real estate values.

The University of Maryland in conjunction with Clemson University found that potential home buyers will pay up to 11.3% above the asking price for homes with thoughtfully designed landscaping.

Environmental Impact of Trees

-In one year an average tree produces enough oxygen for a family of four, for one year.

-One tree will absorb the Carbon Dioxide from 4 cars every year.

-To make up for the loss of trees in just the past decade, we would need to plant 321 million acres, which would entail planting approximately 14 billion trees every year – for 10 consecutive years.

-Planting trees remains the cheapest, most effective means of drawing excess Carbon Dioxide from the atmosphere.

-Planting 100 million trees could reduce carbon by an estimated 18 million tons per year, while saving American consumers $4 billion each year on utility bills.

-Shade trees can reduce utility bills for air conditioning by 15-50%.

-The net cooling effect of a young, healthy tree is equivalent to 10 room-size air conditioners operating 20 hours a day.

-Studies indicate that trees help create feelings of relaxation and well being.

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YEAR-ROIND Maintenance Guide

Pruning, Fertilizing & Watering

Pruning

Most Trees

During late dormant season after severe cold has past, but before new growth starts. (MARCH)    During late dormant season after severe cold has past, but before new growth starts. (MARCH)

Spring Flowering

During late dormant season after severe cold has past, but before new growth starts (MARCH). Can also be pruned after flowering.  During late dormant season after severe cold has past, but before new growth starts (MARCH). Can also be pruned after flowering.

Summer Flowering

Before new growth begins in spring.  Before new growth begins in spring.

Maple, Dogwood, Elm, Birch & Walnut

Don't prune during bud break, leaf expansion, or from late summer to early fall. Prune during early summer (June).    Don't prune during bud break, leaf expansion, or from late summer to early fall. Prune during early summer (June).

Most Shrubs

During late dormant season after severe cold has past, but before new growth starts. (MARCH)    During late dormant season after severe cold has past, but before new growth starts. (MARCH)

Spring Flowering

Prune right after flowering.

Summer Flowering

Before new growth begins in spring.

Rejuvenation

Cut back stems 4-8" from ground every 3-4 years. Remove 1/3 of the old stems every year.

Sub-Shrubs

Examples:
    Russian Sage, Caryopteris   

Prune in mid-spring after severe cold has passed. Never prune in fall or winter.

Most Evergreens

Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth starts.
Heavy summer pruning will cause already existing dormant buds to not grow until the following spring.  

Pines & Spruces

Prune just after new growth has stopped, but before the new shoots (candles) harden.
(JUNE) Do not prune into the woody part of the stem. This leaves a stub & new growth will not emerge from this cut.

Most Vines

Prune in early spring when still dormant. (MARCH-APRIL)

Spring Flowering Vines

Prune after they have flowered.

Vines that flower on new growth made in the current year. (Clematis)

Prune a few inches from the ground in late fall (after the leaves have fallen) or early spring.

Groundcovers (Juniper)

Prune before new growth begins in spring.

Shrub Roses

Prune in early spring as the buds are beginning to swell. Prune 3-4 year old roses by removing 1/3 of the oldest, thickest canes to ground level. 

Tea Roses

Prune in fall or spring:

Fall: cut back to 1 foot tall (may need touch up pruning in spring).     
Spring: prune to swelling buds & remove any dead material. 

Deciduous Hedges

During late dormant season after severe cold has past, but before new growth starts. MARCH

Slow Growing Hedges

Shear before new growth starts or after spring growth is complete (late JUNE).

Fast Growing Hedges

Shear several times during the growing season.

Evergreen Hedges

Prune in early spring. Light pruning can be done any time of the year.

Deadheading

Remove spent flowers throughout growing season.

Grasses, Autumn Joy Sedum, Black-eyed Susan, Etc.

Leave seed heads for winter interest. Best to cut back in spring.

Cutting Back Most Perennials

Cutting back in the spring will produce the best results.    Cutting back in the spring will produce the best results.

Evergreen Perennials

Dianthus, Creeping phlox, Vinca, etc. Should not be cut back - only cut off the dead foliage & spent flowers. Cut back in spring only if heavier pruning is needed.

Fertilizing

Deciduous & Evergreen Trees and Shrubs

Best Time

In the fall after the leaves have fallen, but about one month before the ground freezes.

Second Best Time

In the spring after the danger of severe cold has passed, but before the buds swell.

Never

Do not fertilizer the first year. Apply no fertilizer between late June and before the fall
application time

Shrub and Tea Roses

Fertilize once a month in May, June and July.
Do not fertilize after the end of July.
If leaves are chlorotic, add Iron to the soil.

Perennials

Spring/Early Summer

Apply a slow release fertilizer, such as Osmocote, as plants are actively growing.

Summer

Apply water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Gro, to give plants a boost.

Spring & Early Fall (late Sept.)

Scatter a few handfuls of bonemeal on the soil.  Stop fertilizing by August 1st

Annuals and Bulbs

Container Annuals:

Add a slow release fertilizer to the soil at planting time. Apply a water soluble fertilizer every other  week through growing season.

Landscape Annuals:

Add a slow release fertilizer to the soil at planting time. Apply a water soluble fertilizer once a month through growing season.

Bulbs:

Add a slow release fertilizer high in phosphates (Bone meal).  

Planting Time

        In Spring Apply a complete fertilizer to soil.
        In Fall Add bone meal to soil.

Watering

Deciduous & Evergreen Trees and Shrubs

Spring/Summer

Trees:
Approximately 15 gals of water per
Watering, once or twice a week (soil & weather dependant).

Shrubs:
Approximately 5 gals of water per watering,  once or twice a week (soil & weather dependant).

Early Fall:

Gradually withhold water (after mid Sept.). Continue for 4-6  weeks. Helps trees prepare for winter dormancy.    Gradually withhold water (after mid Sept.). Continue for 4-6  weeks. Helps trees prepare for winter dormancy.

Late Fall:

Water heavily (Nov. 1) before the ground freezes.

Winter:

Water once a month (especially evergreens) if winter is unusually warm, dry and/or windy.

Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs

-In well drained soil (sandy), water deeply about every 3 days until plants get established (about 30 days), and every 5-7 days after that.   

-In heavier soil (clay), water less often. Soak about every 5 days until plants get established (about 30 days), and every 7-10 days after that.  

-Water more often under hot and/or windy days. Water less often in cooler and/or rainy days.

Perennials

Spring:

Water sheltered plants & any areas that are unusually dry.

Summer:

Water thoroughly to encourage deep root penetration (8-10").
Let soil dry out between waterings.

Fall:

Water heavily before ground freezes.

Winter:

Water in late winter if weather is unusually warm & dry.

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